In discussion: Neglected items of clothing II

Over the last couple of weeks or so we have concentrated our blogging efforts on highlighting the key SS11 collections on the catwalk and beyond but as you all know, there is so much to discuss on and around menswear beyond the goings on in Paris, New York, London and Milan. With this in mind, we've decided to take a breather from tackling Menswear Day and instead shift the focus on stocking the conversation fires. Here we've asked a selection of our favourite store owners and bloggers to put forward their favourite neglected or long forgotten items of clothing and accessories...

______

"Sweat pants. I cannot get enough in my life."
Ian Paley, Garbstore.

______

"Well, I'm a big advocate of the bow tie. Not just for formal events. And every gentleman must learn to tie a bow tie!"

Matt Fox, Fine and Dandy.

______

"I don’t like to say as a generalization that men should wear more of a certain garment as I am definitely of the opinion that what works for one will not work for another and in my opinion the key to having a great style is knowing exactly which pieces work for you. I’m also a massive fan of people who will wear something that is completely off key within their honed style and really ask questions of the observer, ie ‘I know that this guy has great style, so why is he wearing that really off key piece that doesn’t work with the rest of his get up?’ . This for me is a real statement of confidence in a person’s style and generally if they stick with a certain one of these pieces long enough it will eventually become a trend at some point."

John Skelton, LN-CC

______

"I would like to see men loosen up and bring in more glamour into the way they dress:

• Cravats – I think they’re really handsome and are surprisingly quite warming in the winter.
• Velvet – on coats, jackets, slippers. Black, burgundy, bottle green, or even yellow.
• Dressing gowns/smoking jackets – I had quite a discussion with designer John Little on our wishes for a dressing gown. He wants a functional dressing gown executed with architectural/couture detailing, whereas I want a dressing gown/blazer hybrid that I can wear out as a jacket."

The Dandy Project, blogger.

______

"I wish more men wore hats - not those garish fitted baseball caps or newsboy caps, but proper hats.  It just adds that extra elegance and charm to a suited look.  I suppose proper etiquette would have to be observed when wearing a hat, but I think it would make for a far more polite and enjoyable experience.  Plus whenever I see elderly people on the street it always feels a bit odd saying "Good Morning" or the like when I pass, they tend to be wary, however tipping my hat would make it far easier."

Dapper Kid, blogger.

______

Is there an item of clothing or accessory that you'd like to see more men wear? Let us know below...

A Visit to Hostem

A Visit to Hostem.

Just last week I bemoaned the lack of truly exciting menswear stores in the capital. I have said countless times that I can count the number of well stocked stores on one hand but there have been a few recent additions that are forcing me to impugn my previous statement. The unveiling of Hostem on Redchurch Street over the summer justifiably caused ripples of excitement throughout the industry. Proprietor James Brown sought to marry his favorite, though often disparate, sartorial aesthetics under one roof. Formerly an arts industrial space, Hostem has been transformed by at the hands of Jamesplumb and now revels in the play between rustic and luxury, housing vintage US trouble lighting and a reclaimed leaf covered pew among the high-end designer goods. The result is three individual rooms, devoted to luxury streetwear, avant garde design and an ever evolving space for visiting designers aim to showcase a world of menswear design talent. A few months on since the launch and as a mouth watering selection of stock begins to hit the shop floor we decided to sit down with the young proprietor to talk shop.

Happy tension between brands.

SS: What were the inspirations, dreams and the driving catalyst behind Hostem?

James Brown: Hostem was born out of the frustration on one set identify being set on the consumer. So many different cultures and experiences have influenced me and I wanted Hostem to reflect that. It was important to create a "happy tension" between brands that you wouldn't necessarily expect to find under the same roof.

There is great team involved in the project and everyone has brought something to the table which has been integral to the birth of Hostem. Darren Rudland who was formally of Jones is the Store Manager and his experience has been invaluable along with Alex Wysman who was the former assistant GM of Dover Street Market was another key reason for the store happening as I felt it was vital to have someone of his calibre on board and finally Mark Quinn who has been a big driving force behind the incredible press the store has received and also my closest confidante from the start of this venture almost two years ago.

It is great to see the likes of Mastermind in store.

SS: What does Hostem mean to you?

James Brown: Hostem is ultimately somewhere I can showcase and support the brands and projects I believe in. It was something first and for most for myself and if others like and respond to it then this is great.

The rail that will leave your heart all a flutter...Adam Kimmel and Casely-Hayford

SS: What attracted you to Redchruch Street for your bricks and mortar menswear destination?

James Brown: Hostem was two years in the making. London's independent retail offer had felt stale for a long time & especially the Westend. We looked everywhere from Mayfair to Dalston but when the opportunity came up to open on Redchurch Street we didn't think twice. There is something very special about the area at the moment. The resurgence and regeneration that is currently happening is phenomenal and it’s great to see independents at the forefront of this process such as, Labour and Wait, Radio and Aesop.

Leather lace-ups from Damir Doma. The design features two waxed lacing systems, a premium leather upper in an all black colorway, finished with white leather lining.

SS: Talk us through the evolution of the store.

James Brown: The store had a very organic birth, I knew the brands I wanted to represent but had know set ideas on the interior or aesthetic until Mark said I should meet with Hannah and James of JAMESPLUMB whom he had chanced upon. The minute I met with them at their home in Stockwell I knew instinctively the interior of the store lay in their hands. I had an instant connection with the duo and we never disagreed once through out the entire 3 month project. We all agreed we wanted to create a warm and inviting feeling in the space from the original reclaimed Victorian floorboards, the hand painted hessian and 'antique' furniture was all sourced from reclamation specialists, antique markets and local stores and this was most definitely achieved. The main floor houses the more avant-garde, artisan and high fashion labels such as Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Damir Doma, MA+ and Boris Bidjan Saberi. The basement which is due to open shortly will have a completely different feel and vibe and definitely not what you would expect from a JAMESPLUMB interior. This space will carry the more streetwear/workwear labels such as Visvim, Adam Kimmel, S.N.S Herning along with several brands that have not been available outside of Japan before that will be exclusive to Hostem will arriving just before Xmas. The third room of Hostem's ground floor will be an ever evolving space where visiting designers will take up residence. The first being the infamous Dr. Romanelli and his Prescription Shoppe which will open in November, 2010.

Beautiful bags by Bedouin juxtaposed with the sights of Redchurch Street.

SS: How have the last few months been for you?

James Brown: The reaction has exceeded all expectations from customers, industry and press. JAMESPLUMB have created something very special with the interior which I will be for ever indebted for. The response to the brand mix has been fantastic as well. I couldn't be happier.

Tweed and pleated ribbon bow ties from Adam Kimmel.

SS: With an exciting array of design talent soon to hang on the rails, can you talk us through your AW10 offering?

James Brown: AW/10 is the first full season for Hostem and we are all very excited with selection of brands adorning the rails. There are many key labels for us this season ranging from Visvim, Adam Kimmel and Casley-Hayford of which the later we are really pleased to be working with. For me Casely-Hayford is probably one of the most unique, important and special offerings in menswear today and both Charlie and Joe have been great supporters of the store since we opened. Ann Demeulemeester is also a very significant brand for us and one of our biggest buys each season. She constantly offers key men's wardrobe staples that are essentially timeless.

It’s also great to be working with the more avant-garde, artisan brands such MA+ who create quite possibly the most exquisite leather pieces you are likely to come across. Geoffrey B Small is another special designer which we stock exclusively. Every single piece of his clothing is hand made and the attention to detail and cut of his clothing is second to none. Finally Curiouser + Curiouser which is the debut collection from Alice Waese, she's a young local designer who creates beautiful silver jewellery, leather accessories and chunky over sized knitted scarves.

My favourite piece is this military inspired jacket from Casely-Hayford.

SS: What are you most excited to see hit the shop floor?

James Brown: Besides the above mentioned collections I am very excited about the arrival of Santa Maria Novella products from one of the oldest pharmacies in the world dating back to 1612. Their products are a joy to use and we’ll be carrying a substantial part of their range from their exquisite perfumes and candles to their honeys and liqueurs. Santa Maria Novella will be arriving in store in November.

_____________

As part of the London Design Festival, Hostem have opened their doors to become The One Room Hotel. Created by Jamesplumb the event will allow a select few the chance to spend one night in a truly unique and intimate installation. By day, the space acts as an exhibition for the interior designer’s striking innovation and time-worn, lovingly restored pieces, all of them new and debuted for the first time. By night, anyone can gain a chance to spend the evening in this captivating enclave.

Lane Crawford blows out 160 candles

2010 is a landmark year for Lane Crawford.

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my new shopping crush in Hong Kong's leading specialty store, Lane Crawford. This Autumn, after a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair has taken a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. Appearances can be deceiving. This season, Lane Crawford is one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of international brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford is proud to launch Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour Lane Crawford’s rich history and unique past, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 features a series of programmes and events throughout this Autumn/Winter. The first of which sees explores a reimagined wardrobe staple, the trench coat...

A reimagined classic, i-D take on the Burberry trench, as shot by Pierre Debusscherre.

By paying exclusive tribute to a classic fashion staple, the Burberry trench coat, Lane Crawford has collaborated with twenty three top fashion and style influencers of today, including (deep breath)...Jonathan Adler, Maggie Cheung, George Cortina, Anna Dello Russo, Godfrey Deeny, Simon Doonan, Garance Dorè, Miroslava Duma, Nina Garcia, Kate Lanphear, Sarah Rutson, Scott Schuman, Keegan Singh, Stefano Tonchi, Taylor Tomasi Hill, Milan Vukmirovic, Kelly Wearstler, Erickson Beamon for Patti Wilson, Lynn Yaeger, as well as the creative teams behind Topshop, i-D Magazine, V Magazine, and VMan Magazine to create a collection of customised one-of-a-kind trench coats. Each trench presents a different take on heritage, fashion and style.

Milan Vukmirovic's effort at shot by Pierre Debusscherre.

Campaign video by Pierre Debusscherre

If Lane Crawford's Tribute to the Trench wasn't reason enough to blow up the balloons and ready the living room for a game of musical chairs, the Heritage Collection undoubtedly seals the deal. Working with some of the most popular contemporary designer labels in menswear, including Acne, Band of Outsiders, Engineered Garments, Kolor, Nigel Cabourn, Rag & Bone, Reebok, Rimowa, Sacai and Visvim, a capsule of exclusive designs of unique pieces from each brand will launch in store this season, creating a limited assortment from the best of Autumn/Winter trends. Below are a few of my favourite pieces. Happy Birthday Lane Crawford!

Clockwise from left, Rimowa luggage, Nigel Cabourn jacket and Sacai coat.

A Visit to Trunk Clothiers

Britain used to be described as 'a nation of shopkeepers.' Whether it was the eighteenth century economist Adam Smith or Napoleon who described this group of islands as such matters little, what does matter is that this nation has lost its retail heart. I can honestly count the number of exciting London stores on one hand. However, the future has begun to look a little bright with the opening of a number of intriguing properties. The recently unveiled Trunk Clothiers had led me to outstretch one more finger. Located over two floors on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street, Trunk introduces a much needed new style to the menswear retailing scene in the capital which I was able to experience for myself earlier today. The seventy square metres brings together a carefully curated selection of the finest menswear and accessories from across the globe. Trunk is a store that sets the standard for gentlemen seeking modern classics of the highest quality matched with impeccable service.

The handsome and inviting exterior.

As the name suggests, Trunk is a compact, well organized and highly edited mix of carefully selected, hand crafted garments from around the world. Trunk stocks labels from Japan, Italy, Sweden, US, Canada and France, that in most cases have not been available in the UK market before. Well respected brands such as Beams+, Aspesi, Montedoro, Barena, Zanone and J Crew all, quite surprisingly, make their London debut with the store. The store offers suits, knitwear, accessories, shoes, hats, eyewear, watches, hoisery, underwear, fragrances and will soon launch a made to measure suit shirt service. Additionally, the space offers special collaborations with two of Japan's finest, in Tabio and Porter. The store reads like Tyler Brule's (and mine) dream shopping list.

The carefully curated space.

Formally a senior manager in global partnerships at American Express, Klingberg,has fused his background in fashion, retail and financial services to engage with brands that are united in their passion for quality and detail. Convincing smaller brands, such as Stealth Wealth of Kyoto, to take a risk overseas has been one of the challenges he believes will make Trunk unlike any other shop in Britain. A number of the brands had been interested in the UK market but hadn't found the right store to work, until now at least. For example, Boglioli, an Italian brand has been looking for the right environment for a number of years but there just was not an opportunity for them. Klinsberg noticed a clear gap in the market and has thankfully taken advantage. Trunk's model is simple, to stock great Italian, Japanese, Swedish and American brands that already have a strong following among London residents, but frustratingly for them could only be found abroad. Now, I could wax lyrical about the store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it. The store affords discoveries at every turn and below are a few of the items that caught my eye...

Boots by Common Projects, belt by Ki:ts, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes. Ki:ts is a Japanese brand that is now based in London, all of the belts are made by hand and each is stunning.

Italy’s Glanshirt has crafted fine men's and women's wear since the 1960’s. Recently they joined the brand family over at Slowear joining the ranks of Incotex and Zanone to name two.

Headwear by Wigens, the one on the right is the product of a collaboration with Harris Tweed. Wigens is a brand that you might encounter in an old gentleman's store in Sweden but Klinsberg discovered it in Iseten in Japan.

The store is full of seemingly unpronounceable brand names, the producer of this super soft scarf being a case in point, LA+H, hailing from Japan.

In addition to offering a plethora of new discoveries, the store is also home to a few old favourites. Here are two examples, socks by Tabio and knitted ties by Drakes.

Handkerchiefs by Drakes.

An eye popping tote from Bag’n’Noun crammed full of scarves by Drakes. The Bag’n’Noun products from Takeshi Ozawa are all handmade in a small factory in Osaka and this is the first European store to stock them.

Boots by Lodger.

A closer look at those boots by Common Projects.

Friendly characters. Trunk's warm palettes of greys, light wood floors and original fireplaces create an inviting environment that faintly echoing Klingberg’s Swedish heritage.

Trunk is a shop for men who like to look sharp, in all settings. Whether its crisp bespoke shirts, tailored blazers, elegant knitwear or smart footwear. At the same time the space delivers a great experience in a warm, welcoming environment which is dedicated to making shopping both simple and enjoyable. Trunk affords discoveries at every turn, in each nook and cranny is a label that I had never seen before but soon fell in love with. The pieces stocked here are the one’s that Klinsberg has unearthed, the ones he shops for in Europe and Tokyo and the ones he wears himself. His passion for finely crafted menswear is infectious and I for one, look forward to my next visit, where I'll no doubt encounter a few more of my 'new favourite' brands.

In one of his insightful rants, Tyler Brûlé mentioned how Japan's lost decade was the catalyst for the rise of a new super talented merchant class that kept the retail scene buoyant despite the dire state of the economy. I hoped that the recent troubling economic times would bring about a new breed of shop keepers and Mats Klinsberg is undoubtedly one of them. Here's hoping that Britain could one day be crowned a nation of menswear shopkeepers.

In discussion: Time Travelling Style II

Fashion is ever changing. Existing materials, cuts and silhouettes are remade, altered, evolved to create something new. The past tends to play a fundamental role in the future. Designers are among the most remarkable cultural historians, tirelessly renewing a fading inheritance,pushing fashion on. A measured glance back in order to go forward. However, when it comes to writing about fashion there is often a tendency to look too deeply at the crystal ball.There is an unquenchable thirst for the new. An impatient demand for the yet unmade. To counter this we asked a few of our favourite menswear personalities to wear Bernard's watch. Here a few of our friends proclaim their favourite moments of style...

__________________________________________________________________

If you could go back in time and experience any
moment in style, what would it be?

__________________________________________________________________

I want to go back to the sixties:
- to crash glamorous Beverly Hills house parties
- to see actual Teddy Boys and skinheads on the streets of London
-to meet my young parents in Manila in custom-tailored bellbottom suits and homemade lace dresses

The Dandy Project, Blogger.

__________

"The moment I would most like to visit style-wise would have to be London during the Regency period. As far as tailoring and menswear history is concerned I suppose that was the time that everything was happening. Fashion was truly being explored and young aristocrats were creating a new attitude towards dress. I would love to have been able to see Beau Brummell in action around Mayfair and at parties with the Prince Regent."

Dapper Kid, Blogger.

__________

"If I could travel back to any style time, which I suppose is just any time full stop, I'd choose 1989. Then I would find 13 year-old Thomas and give him a sound thrashing. My god, what was I thinking? But if that would disrupt the space/time continuum too much, I'd choose the 1920's. The 60's were amazing but a little on the perfect side. In the 20's a man could wear a crazy suit and look completely normal."

The Sunday Best, Blogger.

__________

"How about simply living in the moment? I understand all art references the past (yes I'm calling some clothing 'art'). However, I'm bored witless of this revisionist attitude to clothing. Why not shake things up? This week I'm feeling more and more like I want to smash the system and start a revolution and my clothing will reflect this. Punk isn't a clothing style but an attitude. I spent a few days at one of worlds biggest cultural events last year and no-one confronted or assaulted my senses more than a group of kids taking French ye-ye music and turning it on it's head. Now that's punk. Lead not follow."

Daniel Jenkins, Retailer focusing solely upon British fashion talent.

__________

How about you? Have you got an era that you look back on fondly or perhaps you've dreamt about experiencing for yourself ever since you flipped through an old family photo album. Maybe your moment will come. Tell us all about it below.

A look around Oi Polloi's new store...

Peering through the window of Oi Polloi's new store.

Since opening its doors back in 2002, Oi Polloi has offered an antidote to the mass of bland, uninspiring men's fashion stores lining the high street. As their website puts it: "with a vision of putting together the ultimate selection of classic, functional outerwear with innovative contemporary labels and a serious arsenal of casual footwear, Oi Polloi was born". Over the subsequent years, one of our favourite independent stores has managed continued growth without sacrificing any of its identity or core values. Whenever Steve came up to Manchester we always made the trip to the Tib Street store.

The main window display

The major drawback to Oi Polloi was how teeny tiny the store was. Politely and in true Estae Agents speak we'd call it cosy. Bluntly though, it was just too small. Much of Oi Polloi's business comes from their excellent online shop, but sometimes you just can't beat a bricks and motar store. On the back of their continued and obvious success Oi Polloi moved to a new 1,600 square foot space just before Easter, providing double the size of the previous store. So, when Steve came visiting last week we just had to take a look around...

It was great to see that Action Man and his trusty sidekick had made the trip to the new store. Here they take pride of place on the Brooks' cabinet.

The large cabinet of Brooks' saddles and accessories. A Brooks saddle is a British design classic and it takes centre stage at the new store.

A glass cabinet showcasing the handpicked look of the season. The choices reflect the ideal sartorial arsenal for a weekend getaway...

We were both taken by this display of Fjallraven Kanken bags. A classic lightweight day pack in hard wearing vinylon fabric in a Spring/Summer friendly selection of colourways.

We particularly took our time over this rail. Nigel Cabourn's clothing for obsessives, with production split between England and Japan, using only the finest British materials and fabrics. The detail is phenomenal.

Another well stocked rail of delights

This workbench sat in front of the huge denim wall and features fabulous knits from Folk.

One of our favourite features of the new store is the full shoe wall. Everything from Yuketens to Clarks, moccasins to brogues is on display.

A closer look at the Sperry Top-sider and bucks by Sander. The Topsider blueprint for the American boat shoe, and the cornerstone of Classic Nautical Style.

And what a change it's made. Still stocking as many great brands as before, it is now easier and more enjoyable to browse (did we mention that the staff are really friendly, knowledgeable and happy to chat? Though we should warn you that the Manc accent seems to be infectious judging by the way so many of their customers speak once they step through the doors) and you realise just how wide ranging and varied their stock is. As you can see from out excitedly snapped images above, rails of the latest pieces from Nigel Cabourn, Our Legacy, Heritage Research, Engineered Garments, Oliver Spencer, Folk, Saint James, Barbour, Lavenham (oh the list goes on and on) are accompanied by glass cabinets showcasing cycling and outdoors accessories. Although it is so much larger than the intimate Tib street store, the new location just feels right and you get the sense that the guys are loving the extra space.

At the risk of sounding cheesy, Oi Polloi seems to be more than just a clothes store, bordering on a lifestyle. The Brooks cycling accessories are beautiful enough to make us want to enter the Tour de France just to have an excuse to buy them. Along similar lines they mentioned to us the desire to have kayaks and a couple of tents in store as well. Perhaps if Oi Polloi have their way by this time next year we'll have all have taken up (very stylish) camping? We'll just have to wait and see. In the meantime the new store gives an even bigger reason to make the trip to Manchester.

Inspiration for the now

With so much focus and attention diverted to the future in fashion it is easy to forget which season it actually is. Now, my mind is a little over stimulated with all of the AW10 look books and Press Day visits so as it is Friday afternoon lets step away from gazing in to our style crystal balls and savour the moment, the emergence of now, of Spring. Yet another discovery from Hong Kong (sorry to keep mentioning the trip) illustrates this desire perfectly...

Lane Crawford's 'The Portfolio' provides much inspiration for the present.

As mentioned previously, shopping is an important facet of everyday life here and practically everyone indulges in a bit of consumerism on a daily basis. During my last trip back in November I enjoyed in a spot of window shopping and brand discovery at Joyce, this time round it was Lane Crawford. In addition to marveling at Kim Jones' pop up store (as described below) I was impressed by the array of design talent stocked for SS10 and even more so by the department stores in house magazine The Portfolio. The highlight of which was the Midsummer Odyssey editorial which demonstrated all of the key season trends in an utterly beautiful way. In fact, I'm hard pushed to think of a stronger spread in any of my favourite magazines!

Desert Storm. Acne shirt, Rag & Bone tee, Wings & Horn trousers, Burberry Prorsum bag and bracelet and Cole Haan shoes.

The Porfolio showcases the apparent scaling back on previous seasons as showcased in the SS10 shows. The structured tailoring excess of the last season were forgotten. SS10 was littered with understated looks consisting of wardrobe staples that can travel confidently from work days and weekends alike. Casual wear came in a vibrant variety of wardrobe essentials that included tribal print designs, paint splashed pieces, military inspired separates and feather light knitwear. Delicately rendered cardigans, soft summer trench coats, feather light knitwear and trousers that drape slightly at the hem exude a restrained sense of luxury.

I just wish this could be my Spring/Summer uniform. Yves Saint Lauren cardigan, Rag & Bone tee, 3. Phillip Lim trousers and Pierre Hardy sandals.

There was certainly an Eastern promise feel to a number of key collections. Tribal patterns, graphic motifs and patchwork designs formed a colourful explosion of prints on the runway. Drawing inspiration from the Orient and North Africa, designers such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga ro name but a few, successfully delivered a rich and expressive range of textiles that are ideal for the months ahead.

Givenchy sandals. White Mountaineering jacket and Yves Saint Laurent trousers.

Richardo Tisci in particular created a collection full of ethnic impressions at Givenchy. The collection saw a refreshing mix of formal tailoring and punk attitude, an aggressive army of sportswear shapes and codes reinvented in tartan, middle-eastern prints and monochrome jerseys. As with a number of other shows, classics were modified for the utility requirements of the new season. A variety of military inspired jackets with zip detailing, garments with multiple pockets and practical accesories including backpacks and stylish holdalls.

Utility and sportswear. Ralph Lauren vest, Diet Butcher slim skin jacket, White montaineering trousers, Givenchy shoes and backpack.

One of my favourite aspects of the SS10 shows was the sense that sartorial elegance took on a different interpretation as meticulous and architectural tailoring gave way to a more relaxed silhouette. The overall attitude for the warmer months is one of effortlessness and nonchalance. Designers inclusing Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen all unveiled collections of subtly draped jackets and relaxed tailored pieces.

One of my favourite looks from the spread. Acne jacket, Alexander McQueen shirt, Armani Collezioni trousers and Raf Simons belt.

As the sun becomes a more constant feature in the sky above I think it is time we all reminded ourselves of the diversity of styles from this current season. Right from the understated soft tailoring and functional utililitarianism, to the vibrancy of ethnic influences and the modern artisans, it is time we dress for the now.

Unearthing Kapok

Kapok...another retail gem of Hong Kong.

Wei!? Lei ho ma? My overnight flight from Hong Kong landed this morning and I'm currently in the midst of a sleep deprived zombie like state but before I retire to catch up on some much needed sleep I just had to wax lyrical about Kapok. Regular readers will recall that I found a hidden gem of a store during my last HK visit in Moustache but I doubted whether I could find anything half as interesting during my second visit. I could not have been more wrong. Kapok is another dazzlingly bright gem in a city that is just full of surprises. I was introduced to the store's enigmatic and passionate owner, Arnault as I gulped down sake and tasty sashimi at Zuma and spent much of the evening talking menswear. With Kapok, Arnault's objective is to showcase emerging brands that combine creativity and craftsmanship. The store opened its doors in early 2006 and offered an antidote to the boredom of the countless, indistinguishable shopping malls that have hegemonic status in this bustling, all consuming city. In August 2008, the store moved to San Francis Yard, in Wanchai’s Star Street area...a quiet and friendly location that was fortunately just a jet lagged stroll from our hotel! It was fate.

Saint James

Kapok focuses on showing products by younger labels, those whose work has not previously been available in Hong Kong. The stock presents a well curated selection of European and Asian brands and includes a mouth watering array of my favourite labels. These include highlight picks from Our Legacy, Patrik Ervell, Common Projects, Saint James and Head Porter all of which me want to turn to a life of crime in order to allow me to fill my suitcase with sartorial treats. While balancing my consumer needs and my morals the store introduced me to a number of emerging brands including Commune de Paris 1871, Sixpack, 78%, Carga and established but unfamiliar names including Postalco and Mismo to name but a few. I am so pleased to have discovered this store. It is great to find a store which has such an obvious desire to showcase products that see a happy marriage between craft and design. I will end the introduction there and instead offer a few snapshots of the wonders inside alongside my obvious but unrepentant gushing blurb on the brands and products found inside...

Introducing Sixpack

French label Sixpack's philosophy is simple, to be sincere in their work, have fun and always surprise and grab the attention of their audience. Founder, Lionel Vivier defines the label as a fashion brand with a cultural dimension. “To me Sixpack’s aesthetic is a mix of pop cultures and experimentations, with codes, hidden meanings and implicit cultural references." I just love the character of the brand and could not walk away without picking up a tshirt for myself.

Our Legacy takes pride of place in the store window.

I only really discovered Our Legacy last Summer but I'm scratching my head as to why it took me so much time to blog about this Scandinavian gem. Swedish designers and co-founders Cristopher Nying and Jockum Hallin redefine the classic male wardrobe in a light and comfortable manner. They offer a well dressed contemporary look made to appear thrown together in a perfectly natural and confident way. The use of Italian, British and Portuguese fabrics adds a heritage feeling, like a classic garment from your grandfathers wardrobe, slightly remodeled to fit around a new life and time." The SS10 collection is all about the epic journey of a well made garment. Like a person, a garment has a personal of its own. It can be intellectual, romantic, sensitive, experienced and much more. Hidden Harvest's main philosophy is natural grown fabrics and personal identity. I'd certainly like to get to know a few a garments a bit more intimately...

Our Legacy SS10

Aside from affording the opportunity to salivate over the designs of Our Legacy, Kapok introduced me to Postalco. Originating in Brooklyn and now based in Japan, Postalco creates items inspired by the international transport of mail and the wonders of paper. focus on the theme of the nature of design, what will be charming with repeated use, what is close and attached to a person, and what conveys the idea of the creator - and cast their ideas into shape. The husband and wife team wanted a way to carry papers and documents that would function and age well. Some experimentation resulted in a series of document carrying envelopes made from pressed cotton and leather with an adjustable button closure. I fell in love. A more in depth post will follow this one but I just had to mention my latest with you briefly here...

So much temptation on just one table...more on Postalco in a later post.

Now on to a couple of accessories brands that I can elaborate on, Mismo and Carga. Firmly based in the Danish design tradition and an appreciation for the values of classic craftsmanship, Mismo unites natural materials with simple but refined details to create products of true style. Leather constitutes the backbone of Mismo design, and only the best materials of premium quality are used. In Mismo bags, functionality and detail are harmonised with versatility and durability to strike exactly the right balance. Simply the signature of contemporary chic that is rooted in the virtues of classic design.

Mismo accessories in front a Commune de Paris artwork.

Carga is a line of bags aimed at men who want something that is highly practical and well designed. The range combines sleekness with strength and consists of three different sizes – a Notebook Tote, a Messenger Bag and a Weekend Bag. Carga came about almost by accident. Some of you would have heard the story before but I like it so much that I just have to share it with you again...Having created a bag for himself out of industrial wool felt left over from another project, Mauro took it with him to his architectural office where a client loved it so much that he asked if one could be made for him too. The next day the same client phoned and asked for the order to be extended to two additional bags. Soon the waiting list grew with colleagues and friends all wanting their own Carga bag and the only way forward was to find a workshop which could make the bags to the quality required and at a price that was still reasonable. The Carga collection is based on the desire to use construction techniques in unexpected ways. The nature of the materials along with the individually numbered discs emphasise and heighten the unique nature of each bag, it is little wonder why Mauro's bags are in such demand.

Cargo and Mismo sit side by side.

As mentioned throughout this post, Kapok is a store that only stocks brands that combine design with craftsmanship but many of the products go even further, introducing social and environmental issues to the mix. This is no more apparent than with trainer brand Veja. They are considered by many to be the green sneakers and rightly so but they are much more than that. The label was set up in 2003 by two Frenchmen determined to fight worldwide deforestation, exhaustion of natural resources and Labour exploitation. They managed to come up with one of the best looking fair trade products I've ever come across. Veja works directly with Brazilian small producers, who are organized into cooperatives, of organic cotton and natural latex from the Amazon. The Veja project created a supply chain that respects both humans and the environment. Veja produce simple, low profile trainers produced to a very high quality. Arnault assures me that they are comfortable while ensuring your conscience is clean.

Veja

Now, with no advertising or marketing campaign, Common Projects have become a staple item in the wardrobes of minimalistic trainer lovers worldwide. Seasons after season, their quiet and minimal sneakers have conquered the high-fashion world. With their high quality of materials and handmade techniques, Common Projects have released their Autumn Winter collection, including a very personal take on the dress shoe. Following their success in the world of trainers, Peter and Flavio have spread their wings into dress shoes, boots and accessories. I want everything.

Classic Common Projects

So, I have mentioned clothes, leather accessories and shoes but this passionate French proprietor even thinks about making your feet happy. Happy Socks is a Swedish brand who sold the first pair of socks on 20th August, 2008. The socks are manufactured in Turkey, at a family company that has been in the business for more than 30 years. As they make socks for both the Belgian and Turkish army, we‘re pretty sure that they know how to make socks that last.

Happy Socks...Happy shopping.

In such a small space, Arnault has managed to curate a selection of impressive products that can solve the wardrobe needs of any man. Kapok is my kind of store...I just wish it were a little bit closer because London is crying out for a store as exciting and as varied...oh well, I guess I'll just have to stick to visiting its online shop and I'll certainly visit its blog to discover new talent and labels to covet.