b Store loves Liberty

Both of us at Style Salvage have a soft spot for this particular homely department store and the fabric it is famous for. In 1875 Sir Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened his first shop on Regent Street with merely three employees, where he sold ornaments, fabrics, antiques and artifacts from Japan and the Far East. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Proust bought his ties there and Gilbert and Sullivan dressed their casts in its fabrics. Liberty soon become famous for its prints and textiles and by the 20th century Liberty fabrics were used by great designers like Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Jean Muir and Paul Smith to name but a few.

Designers have always been inspired by Liberty's ever growing archive of prints. Last year alone, the venerable department store launched a number of interesting collaborations, from affordable florals at Target to shoes by Repetto, Nike Dunks adorned with florals and luggage by Merci. With an archive that is one hundred and thirty five years old, there is plenty to excite and inspire. The latest to be inspired is b store. In an exciting collaboration, the design and textile forces behind two of our favourite stores have combined to create a truly covetable capsule collection that celebrates some of the finest prints on offer, including the much loved pepper print. Having recently breathed fresh life in to heritage label, Baracuta in a range of Harringtons and trousers, now b store have reimagined the use of florals in menswear. Here, while showcasing the Jason Hughes styled and Laurence Ellis shot look book, we talk to b store's very own Matthew Murphy to learn about his love of Liberty, discuss the retail landscape in the capital and find out how the Savile Row store will blow out ten candles in a series of events throughout the year...

SS: How did this collaboration with Liberty arise and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Matthew Murphy: The project stemmed from our relationship with Stephen Ayres, Liberty's Menswear Buying Director. We have known Stephen since he worked at Selfridges and when he moved to Liberty he asked us whether we could work together on a project. As the store is in close vicinity with ours and with us working with Selfrigdes and our projects with Dover Street Market, central London is pretty covered in terms of stockists but we still wanted to create something together. We have always loved the heritage of Liberty fabrics and we can up with the idea of working on a capsule collection using these great fabrics. b store loves Liberty. It is not really a collaboration as such because of course, anyone can buy the fabrics wholesale but we wanted a special celebration of these great fabrics. We put the collection together and showed Stephen and he loved it. Initially, Liberty were going to stock it exclusively alongside us, but to get it manufactured we decided to do a bit more and the reaction internationally has been phenomenal. A number of stores that we have been working tentatively with were extremely positive. This season, with the collaborations with both Baracuta and Liberty, it feels decidedly British and the buying reaction has been great.

SS: Were the two collaborations strategically planned together or did they fall in to place?

Matthew Murphy: Ever since we started, the international opinion of b store has always been that we are a very London brand and people have always talked about it being very British. So, we planned that if we were going to collaborate we would work with British brands or brands that could really add something. Baracuta was a great one because we always found outerwear and casual jackets a difficult thing for us, we do shirts and trousers extremely well but tented to struggle with jackets. The stuff that they did with Watanabe and Margaret Howell was quite relevant to what we wanted to do so that came first. Then the Liberty opportunity arose and then everything just fell in to place. For future collaborations, we will continue down this route, find people will add to the complete look of the brand. We don't necessarily want to become a lifestyle as such but the aim is to offer a complete look. We obviously already do shoes and more recently accessories with Kuni (Awai), but it would be good to work on areas that we are not so prolific in and collaborate with specialists not so much in a craft way but, working with people on their signature items. I quite like the idea of working with brands that have become old, stuffy or slightly naff and tweaking them for the modern market.

SS: The archive of Liberty prints must be huge. What was starting point?

Matthew Murphy: We wanted a floral first and foremost because we were feeling that for the collection anyway which is why this always felt like a natural collaboration as they are known for their floral prints. Originally, we wanted to use some of the archive and heritage prints but it just wasn't possible in this instance. The archive prints are almost under lock and key, there are licensing agreements and cost issues so it is lengthy process. For the purposes of this happen, we wanted to make it as simple as possible but still used some amazing prints. It was the late sixties and early seventies prints that really inspired us. For example, the pepper print was designed in 1974/5 so there is still some history to them.

SS: This was a particularly iconic era for floral prints...

Matthew Murphy: Completely. Back then, what is great about them is that there is an obvious femininity there but when you put it in a shirt they feel masculine. There is such a soft feel to Liberty. As a store, it has always been my favourite department store in London. It was almost an introduction to menswear, back when I could first afford to designer clothes the menswear floor at Liberty was phenomenal. Back then they had a impressive Margaret Howell corner, a Westwood area, they had Dries (Van Noten), they were the first store to have Margiela. Fast forward to today and they have found a great niche. I think Stephen has a clear vision of what he wants the current menswear floor to be and it fits with our brand.

SS: You've had the pleasure of working alongside some of the great retail institutions of the capital...

Matthew Murphy: London is still one of the best shopping cities in the world. There might be more interesting things going on in other cities but if you want a selection then London is still the city. I'm all for teaming up and we've been fortunate to work with some great stores for example with Shop at Bluebird, with Selfridges, Dover Street Market and now Liberty. Each of the stores have strong identities and we've worked with all of them in different ways. It is amazing to think that our brand can do that, maybe the appeal is that it can fit so many different demographics and consumers. Originally, we thought that the work with Liberty would be a one off but after the success of it we began to think about working with the fabric in new ways and there is just so much creative opportunity. It can be subtle, as well as bold. For example, for SS12 we are already looking in to overdying fabrics. Then there are some bold geometric patterns from the 70s that remind me of early 90s Prada and that feels right at the moment as well. It is a great opportunity .

SS: What can you tell us about the planned launch?

Matthew Murphy: We are going to have a corner in Liberty's, put up the images and cover the walls in the pepper print. We are also going to open a pop up store in Printemps in Paris in May. Through doing this project, it has opened up opportunities. There are a million collaborations out there but if they are relevant then they work.

SS: I understand that 2011 is a big year for b store...

Matthew Murphy: It certainly is. We are ten in August and we have so many projects planned for the year to celebrate. Everything that we've planned is going under the umbrella of celebrating the store with different people, so Liberty, a roadshow with Selfridges which is pop up shop that begins in Manchester and goes to Birmingham before ending up in London, Printemps and we are working with Mr Porter online. We are also going to launch ten British products. We've approached ten British brands in categories that we are not currently involved in and these include lifestyle and fashion brands, some well known and a few which are less so. Actually there is one brand that I know you'll love, a new tie brand called Marwood. One of the key things that she does is using British lace on top of either silks or cottons to create ties and bow ties. It is beautiful. We are working with her for Spring/Summer in store but she is also going to be one of the ten. These types of projects are great because as well as keeping us creatively inspired, they are a great platform for discovering new brands and pushing them forward.

SS: In a sense, it is fitting celebration and it mirrors the core values of the b store ethos…

Matthew Murphy: Completely. It might be a bit less relevant or for difficult for us now in terms of menswear because our customers want a bit more consistency. For example, we have worked with Peter Jensen since the very beginning and we have customers who come to buy his designs, same with Stephan (Schneider) and now with Christophe (Lemaire). It is hard for us to introduce new menswear brands because there is no one we could nor would want to drop. Unfortunately we are governed by space and the fact that seventy per cent of our menswear is our own brand. This high percentage is not down to us pushing it but is down to the demand. So what we buy from these other bands is items that we wouldn't do necessarily ourselves by still feel very us, the understated luxury of Christophe or the geekyness of Peter. With these boxes filled it is difficult to bring on new labels. With regard to womenswear we have more freedom. This is why the Ten Products project is great because it allows us to bring in new names for product lines that we do not already sell.

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As the chaps celebrate their tenth anniversary in a style, you can expect to hear a lot more about b Store on the pages of this blog and beyond in the coming months. In the meantime, lets long for some sunshine and daydream about floral prints before the fruits of this collaboration hit stores next week.  

Let it rain on Mount Street

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Thankfully, in 1823, Charles Macintosh developed the process of spreading rubber onto cotton to create the worldʼs first formal waterproof fabric, signaling the arrival of the original Mackintosh coat. Since then it has dedicated itself to keep the world stylishly dry. Today, Mackintosh is a firmly established brand with an almost cult status, especially in the Japanese market. Recognised for its unique hand made authenticity, the great British label produce outerwear for a diverse range of clients in Paris, Milan and Tokyo; including high profile luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Dior, YSL and fashion designers Erdem, Junya Watanabe and Nigel Cabourn to name but a meaty mouthful.  

Thankfully, the brand resisted temptation from Japan and has opted to open its maiden store in the aptly, drizzly British capital.  The fabulously located Mount Street store officially opens its doors this evening but I was extremely fortunate to have Daniel Dunko, UK managing director of Mackintosh Ltd, as my store guide and brand enlightener earlier this afternoon.

I could not have had a better guide to talk me through the beautiful two story space than Mackintosh's very own Daniel Dunko. As he talked me through the latest designs, I was amazed to learn that he began his working life with Mackintosh as an apprentice on the factory floor back in 1983 and has since worked his way up to the position he hold now. He has worked for Mackintosh for twenty eight years come May. Following the three year apprenticeship he then served on the Cumbernauld floor for two years before embarking on a sales and marketing position at the company, then a directorship in 1996 and he never looked back. It was an absolute pleasure to hear about Dunko's experiences right from the craftsmanship of the factory floor to buyouts and investments. Unsurprisingly, he was hugely excited by the latest development in his brand's rich history. It was contagious.  

104 Mount Street is Mackintosh's flagship store. Prior to that they have enjoyed a strong concession presence, particularly in Japan and the rest of Asia but the brand began to put the plans together for their own space two years ago. Thankfully they only had their sights on London. Previously, the only retail presence they had in the capital was a shared store with Globetrotter located in Burlington Arcade which was forced to close following changes of ownership. Soon after they decided that they needed their own flagship store and, as they are a relatively niche brand, Mayfair and Mount Street were the perfect fit.

World famous interior designers and architects Wonderwall created the two floor, 90sqm state-of-the-art store and key features include an interior in tune with the modern Mackintosh brand and is truly inspired by its British craftsmanship. The design sought to showcase the brand's rich history, fruitful archives and latest ranges in a welcoming consumer friendly environment. For me, the design highlight has to be the three display cases showing iconic pieces from the Mackintosh's history. Since its inception, the brand has always been at the forefront of outerwear design and these display cases are a welcome reminded. From the Army coat from the 1930s which was a very heavy, rubberised bonded twill, to the a Dispatch Riders coat worn in the second World War to help deliver on deliver messages to the troops via motorcycles on the front line, on to to the British Rail days and outfitting rail staff in the 70s.

Mackintosh is undoubtedly a brand of modern heritage built on true craftsmanship and a two hundred year history. If you were in any doubt, the Mount Street store gently reminds you at every turn, from  the encased vintage pieces to the feel of their latest garments which hang invitingly on hooks and rails. Every genuine Mackintosh garment is carefully hand made by skilled craftsmen who serve a three-year apprenticeship to perfect the techniques required to make a true mackintosh. With its factory in Cumbernauld, Scotland focused on hand made outerwear, Mackintosh also owns a second factory in Nelson, England producing the machine made side of its collections. The brand have sixty people in the Lancashire factory and about sixty seven in the factory in Scotland. Production wise it is similarly equally split. The Scottish factory creates all of he handmade pieces, and the factory in England concentrates on the machine work with cashmeres, wools, gabardines. I was amazed to learn that the label produce around thirty five thousand garments apiece at these pillars of British manufacturing.

In terms of design, the brand's archive pieces are hugely important and the teams in both Glasgow and Japan continue to rework, renew and reinvigorate items of yesteryear for the future generation of Mackintosh wearers. The archive is approximately five hundred pieces strong, many of which are the results of collaborations, from catwalk piece for Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons to Yohji Yamaoto and shortly the fruits of the design partnership with Kitsune. Having had my interest in the latest collaboration piqued after the Voyageur collection received a fair amount of blog coverage in the run up Christmas, this was the first opportunity I had to see it in the cloth and I was not left disappointed.  This is a happy marriage of two like minded brands, one from a manufacturing background and one from a design perspective combining to create truly covetable outerwear. Fittingly, I was particularly taken with the London. Stunning.

The unveiling of this impressive store, coupled with the brand’s British heritage and modern cuts, truly confirms the resurgence of the brand. Mackintosh will never forget that the rubberised coat was one of the most creative and revolutionary innovations that changed the lives of so many during that era.  However, most interestingly the brand keeps evolving and offering timeless contemporay collections. Mackintosh is the original British rainwear brand, long may it continue. Let it rain.

(Pleased with myself as I managed to make it through to the end of the post without bursting in to Mark Morrisons' classic)

Travel Organised

Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.

This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.

Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Advent - Twenty Four

Whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a number of years now. With each visit to the Savile Row institution, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store. Here's what's on Matthew Murphy's Christmas list...

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FRENCH COPPER PANS BY THE PIERRE VERGNES FAMILY

I love these classic set of french copper pans made by the Pierre Vergnes Family..........perfect for oven baked ham and eggs, 'Leila's cafe' style!

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'SANDALWOOD' EAU DE COLOGNE BY SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Most of Santa Maria Novella's cologne's are beautiful..... but I like to alternate Vetiver and Sandalwood, which is my current favourite..... The original store in Florence is amazing and is where I first fell in love with the fragrances.

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Advent - Day Twenty Three

3939 launched as a lifestyle and retail concept located in the basement of a well loved Japanese restaurant, Life just last month. Set up by three creative friends in Tatsuo, Pippa and Peter. Both the physical and digital spaces showcase the trios unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which have been developed in association with the craftsmen and talent that they all adore. This is a truly independent project driven forward by the determination to offer something different. 3939 incorporates a unique point of view and leaves me excited in the process. Having provided me with a wealth of present options for my nearest and dearest, I just had to find out what was on Tatsuo Hino's Christmas list and here it is...

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ELEPHANT RING BY DOG STATE

The item is the 'Elephant Ring' by Dog State . I have actually ordered to have it resized for me when I am back from Japan early next year. It is made by my friend, Toshi, who is based in London and trained at the Great Frog for eight years as residential shop keeper and designer. What I like about it is that the detailing about the face is so intricate. I cannot wait to wear this!

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LEWIS D LTD 204A FLYING BOOTS

My ideal Christmas gift would be the Lewis D Ltd Flying boots with shearing inside. I recently tried a pair on at the Lewis Leathers store. They were reintroduced the boots back into the range after carefully researching them right down the to the correct buckles of the original pair from the 30s. The shearling lining is sourced from a Tannery in the West Country, the leather nowadays is a high grade Cowhide for durability during everyday wear, soles are leather and the heels are rubber with a pattern identical to those found on many vintage RAF flying boots. They are a classic with heritage, sleek but modern and functional boot commanding a reasonable price (£350) for what they are.

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Advent - Day Twenty Two

The introduction of Trunk Clothier's to Marylebone's Chiltern Street has been one of the real highlights of the year. Trunk's model is simple; to stock great Italian, Japanese, Swedish and American brands that already have a strong following among London residents, but frustratingly for them could only be found abroad. Formally a senior manager in global partnerships at American Express, Klingberg has fused his background in fashion, retail and financial services to engage with brands that are united in their passion for quality and detail. The facet that makes Trunk unlike any other store, has been his ability in convincing smaller brands, such as Stealth Wealth of Kyoto and Bogliolo, to take a risk overseas. Klinsberg noticed a clear gap in the market and has thankfully taken advantage. The store affords discoveries at every turn. Here's what's on his Christmas list.

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TRUNK BY PORTER BOSTON BAG

"I'd love to find one of our own Trunk by Porter bags under the Christmas tree this year. Preferably the olive Boston Bag to match the Tote that I already have. Porter started manufacturing highly durable bags for carrying rubble for Japanese building sites many years ago. Their modern bags reflect this heritage with an emphasis on durability, understatement and functionality."

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Advent - Day Sixteen

At this time of year there is one department store that draws me in with its festive interior and myriad of gift options inside, Liberty. However, outside of the usual gifting season there is plenty of reason for me to venture down to the basement. The menswear floor at London’s most cherished store is widely considered to be small but perfectly formed. Menswear buyer Stephen Ayres regularly introduces new labels whilst keeping old favourites to help create a dream walk in wardrobe. Here we find out what's on his Christmas list... 

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VINTAGE ROLEX OYSTER DATE WATCH FROM 1981


"My Christmas would be complete if I woke up to a Vintage Rolex Oyster date adjust watch from 1981 the year I was born. I think every man should have a proper watch and as I approach 30 only a Rolex will do."

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Veja's Centre Commercial

The two founders of Veja have embarked on an intriguing retail project located in a neighbourhood that favours slow shopping, a few steps away from the Saint Martin Canal, and its cafés, and terraces. The space is a natural extension of the values behind the label and combines fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. For those of you unfamiliar with the label, the origin of the Veja project can be summed up in one question: is another world possible? 

Over the last six years Veja have helped put forward their answer by creating a global chain that emphasises solidarity and the environment, from the small producers in Brazil to the European concept stores that sell its growing product range. Centre commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark and houses second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. It is a collective space, uniting local, social and environmental initiatives. The retail space showcases their varied but ultimately complimentary influences. Here we speak with Veja's Aurélie Dumont to learn more about the store and the brands plan for the future. 

SS: Centre Commercial instantly feels likes the antidote to fast paced retail. Was this one of the driving catalyst for the project?

Aurélie Dumont: Yes, Centre Commercial has been thought of as a place to slow down.  Reminiscent in the ways of our grandparents, we wanted to favour know-how and continuity. Rather than mere products, Centre Commercial will curate genuine projects.

SS: How did the project arise, was it always part of the Veja plan, if not how did it evolve?

Aurélie Dumont: Veja was created in 2004 with the intention of proving that it is possible to work differently. We have created a strong social, economic and, ecological chain from small producers in Brazil to the doors of European stores. During these past two years we have started adding a cultural dimension to Veja having been inspired by people we have met along the way: designers with really great projects going far beyond the ecology or meeting artists with fascinating messages. We started organising art exhibitions and a series of unconventional talks, and we soon felt that we needed a space to feature those messages.

Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.

SS: What does Centre Commercial mean to you?

Aurélie Dumont: In a way, the name itself refers to mass consumption. The name is a nod to the works of the French philosopher Bernard Stiegler and suggests questioning our consumption habits. Centre Commercial is a shopping center. A selection of clothes, accessories, furniture, bikes, cosmetics, books and publications has been put together…. a shopping center then …but modeled after us. 

SS: Like the Veja label itself, the space manages to combine fashion with social commitment and artistic projects with environmental concerns. It is a space infused by your varied but ultimately complimentary influences. How did you curate the store?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial is meant to be a place to slow down and to question what we consume through a selection of locally made clothes and accessories, furniture sourced by antique dealers, committed installations and artistic projects, bicycles revamped by a social charity and shortlisted books and publications.  Among the selected wardrobe for both men and women you will find brands such as Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton, Saint James who has been knitting their fisherman style jumpers in Brittany since the 1950’s or La Botte Guardiane whose boots and shoes are hand-made in the French Camargue following traditional methods.

An enticing mix of product from labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark.

SS: Centre Commercial offers labels made in France, Great Britain and Denmark whilst housing second-hand bicycles, vintage furniture and art works. Are the brands and individuals involved friends of Veja? How did you find the right mix of products?

Aurélie Dumont: Our ambition was to create a space which would work as a catalyst for projects and initiatives we like.  Ties between those projects will probably arise where we don’t expect them.  From fine artists to fair trade certification bodies, we will feature individuals and companies which work differently.

Veja and Gloverall

SS: Would you be able to talk us through some of your favourite products currently in store?

Aurélie Dumont: One of the most interesting discoveries so far has been the quarterly French XXI publication. XXI features seasoned novelists, recognized investigative journalists and major graphic novelists depicting our current world through well-documented and in-depth articles. Both the latest issue and the 11 back issues are available at Centre Commercial.

SNS Herning knits

SS: Aside from fabulous product, what do you hope the consumer will take away from the store?

Aurélie Dumont: We hope that they will take away the feeling that trade can be done in a different way while experiencing a certain aesthetic. Centre Commercial aims to be a place where minds can meet. The book selection for example, contrary to what is on offer in a traditional library, counts only ten books in total. These have been carefully chosen by a French editor, they are his current selection of great books he’d like to share. That selection will be periodically renewed by each new literary specialist.

Knowledge Cotton Apparel whose shirts are crafted in Denmark using organic cotton

SS: The store sounds far from static, the curation of product and art is an on going endeavor. How would you like to see the store evolve? Is there anything that you are particularly looking forward to in the near future (for example a particular delivery of product or upcoming exhibition?

Aurélie Dumont: Centre Commercial opened last week featuring the fine artist Kleber Matheus from São Paulo, whose works are made from neon light tubes. More exhibitions will be unveiled in 2011. For the coming months we will have more ‘made in France’ garments, some promising accessories and a new exciting project around bikes.

Centre Commercial aims to slow down the retail experience.

SS: Finally, what's next for Veja?  

Aurélie Dumont: 2010 has seen the launch of Projet Numero Deux, our debut line of day bags and accessories in collaboration with London-based store Darkroom and the exclusive web platform oki-ni.com. Vegetable tanned-leather wallets and laptop sleeves made of organic cotton have just been released. For 2011 we have worked on new exciting styles and an exclusive collaboration with French Trotters which will be soon uncovered!

Centre Commercial is located at 2 Rue de Marseille in Paris.

Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.

A Visit To End Hunting Co

In recent months we have tried to shine the spotlight on the members of society that we have huge respect for, the independent store owners. Britain used to be described as 'a nation of shopkeepers'. Whether it was the eighteenth century economist Adam Smith or Napoleon who described this group of islands as such matters very little, what does matter is that this nation has lost its retail heart. Over the years the retail landscape has changed from busy, bustling stores to empty, with boarded up shop fronts being the norm. That said, there are a few individuals leading the way throughout the country who suggest that we could once again be crowned a nation of menswear shopkeepers. Up until now our A Visit to series has concentrated the spotlight on London stores but all that changes after a trip to Newcastle. Last week, just as the snow began to fall on the northern half of the country, this southern fairy made its way to unchartered (cold) territory. The purpose of the trip was to explore Nigel Cabourn's studio (an amazing experience but more on that later this week) but I could not resist a quick nosy around the city's flagship menswear store, End.

End was born in 2005. Located on High Bridge, the store brings the best brands from around to world to the city. The two floor space is relaxed, informal and its staff have no attitude. The shopping experience is a pleasant and productive one. However, I'd like to focus your attention on their second store. In the Autumn of last year, End unveiled their sophomore concept with 'End hunting Co.' Inspired, as the name indicates, by hunting and outdoor pursuits, the hunting lodge spaces draws on the opulence and luxury of many twentieth Century gentleman’s clubs, with wooden clad walls and ornate antiques and a fusion with rustic Americana influences. The space makes perfect sense. As the snow fell heavily outside there was much protective temptation inside. The astute buying of the founders, John and Christiaan, still only in their late 20s, is hugely impressive. Highlights includes Bleu de Paname's denim, Our Legacy's heavyweight shirting, Heritage Research's Modified Longline Parka and Visvim's Luminaria backpack. Now, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it so rather than rabbit on about the stock, lets show you...

The mannequin stands confidently in front of the Levis Vintage rail and wears Norse Projects, Kitsune and Visvim.

The most popular purchase in the store, Inventory.

Started in 1924 Calabrese is produced and designed today by the great-grandchildren of founder Eugenio, to the same exacting standards in their small Neapolitan factory. The Cenito zip wallet sits in front of Comme des Garcons Play shirts and accessories.

Anderson belts sit in front of Calabrese bags. Anderson's are regarded as one of the best belt makers in the World. The Italian company have been emulating Parma's leather artisans since 1966, creating belts that are as durable and good looking as any you will find.

This heavyweight hunting inspired overshirt from Our Legacy embodies the store perfectly. Made from 100% virgin wool, with a classic indigo flannel style check, the shirt is perfect for keeping out the cold winter winds.

Our Legacy have become synonymous with quality shirting, and for good reason, these button down check shirts are prime examples.

Long sleeve button down shirt from Norse Projects. The Scandinavian brand love to reference heritage design and the canvas work shirt is one of the most enduring of silhouettes around, given some typically modern details. Wonderful basic.

Founded in Germany over forty years ago, Burlington are the pioneers of the Argyle patterned sock. They make the ideal Christmas gift for any male family member.

Norse Projects Husavik scarf. 100% wool scarf from the Danish label. Made in Italy, perfect for the cold north. I was sorely tempted as I watched the snow fall rapidly from the cold, grey skies.

Nigel Cabourn Army Satchel. The combination of canvas and authentic bespoke Harris Tweed construction makes this multi use shoulder bag something very special indeed.

The show-piece in the Quoddy collection and certainly the style everyone instantly recognises as Quoddy is the Grizzly.

A row of Abingtons. The Guide Boot is based on vintage hunting moccasins, one of the most enduring footwear styles to come from North America. While, The the Hiker Boot is based on a classic outdoor silhouette, with the addition of Gore Tex uppers to this already incredibly finished boot.

Thankfully Band Of Outsiders returned for another seasons collaboration with Sperry Topsider.Using the finest materials and adding their own unique features Band Of Outsiders have created some interesting make-ups for the iconic brand. For example the middle pair is constructed from corduroy and lined with cotton Oxford.

The quintessential hiking boot design, Fracap are handmade in Italy, and until recently solely for the Japanese market. Now they can be seen on the feet of many (few of which are worn anywhere close to a mountain).

A selection of Tricker brogues and Grenson boots make the fireplace even more inviting.

This is the original Trickers Brogue, a timeless style that is yet to be surpassed. The Malton is handmade, using only the finest leather, meaning these should last you a lifetime.

The snowy High Bridge street scene.

End Hunting Co showcases products with a level of quality and craftsmanship rarely seen in the UK and the fact that they are housed in a unique environment, makes this a special store indeed. My trip up north has inspired me to escape from the bubble that surrounds the capital more often.