Showroom Next Door For AW11

For the last three seasons my London Fashion Week has begun with an elongated visit to the ever fruitful, Touba Distrubution curated, Showroom Next Door. Why should AW11 be any different? So, before I was seduced by the charms of b Store's reimagined, My Own Private Idaho inspired functional menswear whilst nodding along to the sounds of Blood Music (more on that later), I explored the latest Showroom. Spread over two floors on Grosvenor Street, the space has once again became my dream walk-in wardrobe. 

The Showroom space exemplifies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. This season is is no different. In fact, I'm pleased to say that it has managed to improve and grow further. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. The AW11 lineup reflect their hard work and passion. Casely-Hayford, Mr Hare, Mohsin Ali, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney read like a who's who of men's fashion. These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that call this capital of ours its home. Over the course of the coming week, whenever I have a spare moment, I will locate myself in these inspiring surroundings and speak with each of the designers in turn for more in depth posting. However, whilst the initial excitement bounces around inside of my enthused brain, I have to share my initial thoughts on the highlights of the season...

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Chauncey

Chauncey is a Brussels-based menswear label and combines the talents of designer Nathalie Bouhana and her photographer partner David Sdika. It is a relatively recent discovery for this blogger but it is a label that I've been hearing an awful lot of good things about so it is great to finally be able to marvel at it in person. Having previously designed knitwear for Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo and Anne Valérie Hash, Nathalie certainly has an eye for luxury knits. Creative, minimalist but exclusive, Chauncey prides itself on European craftsmanship. Aside from the rich colour palette there is no eccentricity, just quality and modern design. Extreme precision and the highest quality yarns and manufacturers. An "elegant gentleman traveler" look with a slice of Belgian surrealism. These are knits that your skin longs to touch.

Unsurprisingly, I'm particularly fond of the polka dot number in grey.

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H by Harris

The H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Harris designs aptly uses the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm. Since then, Harris has slowly but surely added new styles to covet.

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Hannah Martin

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. The look is elegant yet decidedly rock n’ roll. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Every collection has a strong narrative and I cannot wait to speak with Hannah to hear all about the character behind the latest offering.

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Bunney

Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and left me experimenting. The Bunney offering has evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to something of a magpie's haven. For the latest season, the fruits of his search to create series of padlocks can finally be enjoyed. Inspired by the practice of Love Padlocking in Paris and beyond, Bunney sought the last bastions of British craftsmen to create his precious padlocks.  

A beautifully crafted lucky rabbit's foot. The ideal way to mark the year of the rabbit.

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Mr Hare

Oh Mr. Hare, how much we love you and your creations. The brand has been close to our hearts the moment we heard that our favourite shoeist was creating something out of his obsession. Since then, the brand has deservedly gone from strength to strength. His fine leather creations can now be found across the world in an expanding selection of much loved retail outlets, from Selfridges to Colette to Beams. In his continued quest to dominant the world of shoes, Mr Hare has unveiled his latest collection and there might be a few surprises. Given our affection to the brand, I will merely tease with a few looks before going in to great detail with the man himself very soon.

Beautiful boots, subtle branding (check out the four hares and a swan) and even a Vibram sole. Stunning stuff from our favourite shoeist.

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Casely-Hayford

Now in its sixth season Casely-Hayford is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style and here they serve up a huge collection. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. In creating a new collection their driving motivation is to capture the feelings of an ever-changing environment and to communicate society's natural inclination to move forward. The clothes start from a traditional stand point, but rather than being nostalgic and whimsical, they choose to reflect the spirit of twenty first century gentleman - a character conscious of many reference points yet someone who chooses to distill his style into a concise statement. Things have moved on since the days of the Duke of Windsor, and although he is a great inspiration and a foundation for the brand, the modern sartorialist has a different appetite. Their requirements, desires, and practical needs are frequently drawn towards a synergy between the formal and athletic. For this collection, the duo include the requirement and need of protection and comfort against the elements. This sartorial cocktail runs throughout the outerwear, tailoring and accessories. There is always a narrative at the core of what they do, connecting each collection to the last and making foundations for the next. 

As always, the collection is designed in London and made in Japan. Fine English fabrics are combined with the signature House cut and Japanese artisan construction to create a unique design statement and commitment to enduring quality.

The fabric combination are always a delight. Each item is full of details. I could literally spend hours closely examining the contents of each rail.

With a collection taking up over three rails of Showroom space, Casely-Hayford now offer the complete wardrobe. But that is not enough. Now, we have some exciting news to share. The design duo are launching their first luxury sneaker for AW11. The house have created a new streamlined Hi silhouette on a unique last with a modern minimal aesthetic. The sneakers have been designed to compliment the relaxed masculine proportions of fine tailoring and jersey suiting that the brand has become renowned for. Premium grained leather and fine quality suede trim dominate the upper, set on a sole crafted from a unique vulcanised rubber that will undoubtedly become a defining feature of the signature Casely-Hayford Hanbury sneaker. These will be available in select stores from July 2011 but here's a sneak peek...

The Hanbury will no doubt cause a flutter or two.

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The Showroom Next Door is an inviting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. If you are in town and have a spare moment, please do drop in. However, do not despair if you can't it in yourself, over the course of the next week I will be enthusing over the highlights in detail. In the meantime, I'm off to bed and long to wake up with the Showroom as my wardrobe.

Experimenting with Bunney

Dipping a cautious toe in the waters of men's jewellery thanks to Bunney.

Now, regular readers will know that I struggle with men's jewellery. However, whilst blogging I have encountered two designers, Hannah Martin and Andrew Bunney, that have opened my eyes to this previously daunting realm of shiny embellishment. The latter, Bunney started in 2009 as a jewellery line that seeks to make simple things look beautiful, intriguing and understandable. Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and have left me reaching for my wallet. Last September I finally invested in a few items.


As you should all know by now, Bunney evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three, in to a magpies heaven during the last instalment of the Showroom Next Door. However, as the Bunney range grows, his desire to create something quite unisex and versatile remains. Made by craftsmen in workshops around England, each piece is finished with care and attention before being hallmarked at the Goldsmiths’ Company, responsible since 1300 for testing the quality of gold and silver. I opted for the hammered badge and a slightly smaller version of the pyramid stud set. I picked the latter up over the weekend and have been experimenting with them ever since.

One of the facets that makes style in this country so exciting is how people can appropriate and interpret items and use them in a way unique to themselves. The pieces are meant for use with clothing and encourage the wearer to consider and compose a variety of combinations. Bunney says the concept focuses on giving freedom to the wearer “you wear them how you want, on a jacket or a shirt, together or separately”. The entire line not only facilitates individuality but downright encourages it. Ever since I first talked through the label with Andrew Bunney, I've daydreamed about my picks and the myriad of ways in which they will be worn. Over the last few days, I've experimented for real...

Two of the three pyramid studs worn with Crombie by ASOS Black, breton by E. Tautz and shirt by Patrik Ervell.  

Two of the three pyramid studs worn on the collar of Lanvin shirt under a sweater by COS

One of the three pyramid studs worn on the lapel of suit jacket by J.A Daye.

Inspired by Bunney's SS10 look book which showcase the likes of Clare de Rouen and Mr Hare wearing their choices extremely well and uniquely, I have strived to wear the studs a different way each day.  I might just be dipping one cautious toe in the the previously uncharted waters of jewellery but the likes of Andrew Bunney are tempting me to jump right in. 

Sunspel SS11

Based in Long Eaton, Derbyshire, Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. Sunspel's clothes are handmade resulting in wardrobe staples that feel deeply luxurious yet have an understated elegance and sophistication. This national institution has been quietly making the finest English underwear and t-shirts since 1860. However, the label is best known for providing the memorable boxer shorts Nick Kamen wore in the infamous 1985 Levi’s ad. That said, throughout their long history they have experimented with new styles, fabric structures, knitting techniques and have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell, Thom Browne and Kris Van Assche to name but a few. Despite being in our underwear drawer, it was the appointment of JW Anderson at the creative helm and the opening of their first stand alone store on Redchurch Street that really brought the brand to our attention.

For SS11, Anderson has introduced a womenswear offering to run alongside its expanding menswear range. After an impressive 2010 and a hugely promising future, we just had to learn more about Sunspel. Here we talk to JW Anderson about his role at the label, the fabric developments for SS11 and discuss his hopes for the future...

SS: Sunspel have spent the last one hundred and fifty years perfecting the art of timeless clothing. What attracted you to this iconic British institution?

JW Anderson: Exactly that, as well as their expertise in fabric development. I was also attracted to the close knit team at the factory in Long Eaton, it was fantastic to be able to interact with the people that are actually making the garments and I have learnt a lot from them.

SS: What does Sunspel mean to you?

JW Anderson: Quintessential timeless British basics of the highest quality.

SS: I recently read that your role at Sunspel evolved from an initial collaboration. Over the years the brand have collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Margaret Howell and Thom Browne to name but a few. This is no surprise really because their bespoke manufacturing skills, long experience and innovative attitude make them valuable partners. What was the initial collaboration?

JW Anderson: I was already a fan of Sunspel and approached them about maybe doing something with me for my brand J.W. Anderson. We never did an actual collaboration however, instead I started consulting for them, working on the seasonal collection and helping with the look of their first shop on Redchurch Street. The consulting worked well and in September last year they offered me the more official title of Creative Director.

SS: What was the starting point the moment you took up this position?

JW Anderson: I wanted to strip it back to it's core, in order to highlight the best parts of the strong heritage that Sunspel is well known for such as their great basics. I looked at archive pieces from the 1940s and 50s and introduced some elements from that time, such as the blue tipping on the new cotton/elastic range of briefs and the old Sunspel logo which we printed onto white Ts.

SS: How do you balance your own label menswear, womenswear and accessories ranges with this position? Do you ever sleep? Does your position at Sunspel offer a welcome respite from the world of catwalk fashion?

JW Anderson: Sunspel actually offers me reflective time. Working there has taught me the art of stripping back and the importance of refinement.

SS: Could you talk us through the first and last items you remember designing for Sunspel?

JW Anderson: The first piece I designed was a basic hoody but we produced it in the archive wool that was used to produce long underwear. I liked the juxtoposition of the archive fabric with a relatively modern staple - the hoody. The last was the salvage stripe shirt, which is going to be a key piece for Spring/Summer 2011.

SS: How would you describe the SS11 collection in your own words?

JW Anderson: It's reflective of the developments of new fabrics for the collection, while being stripped back and graphic. We developed a new weight in the Egyptian Cotton, which we call Q81. It is half the weight of the regular Egyptian cotton used on the under pants and T shirts. It was originally developed for the Sunspel women's which launches in March this year. But I used it on some of the men's making an oversized T shirt- which has a great sheer quality.

SS: Finally, how do you see the brand developing over the next few years?

JW Anderson: There will be considered growth, with expansion of new and innovative fabrics for basics. Quality British basics are synonymous with Sunspel and we are expanding into new product categories such as chinos, shirting and even shoes! There are also plans for new stores which is an exciting opportunity to further illustrate the Sunspel message to a wider audience.

Brace yourself for 10A AW11

I'm struggling to believe that it has been a whole six months since I experienced my first trip to the Pitti Immagine. The one thousand, four hundred and seven exhibitors who previewed their SS10 collections and projects at Pitti Uomo and Pitti_W was an unprecedented record. The sartorial Disneyland of menswear trade shows that is Pitti Uomo introduced me to countless pulse raising brands. Six months on, it is time for them and no doubt a few more, to do it all over again for a new season. Unfortunately, my weak heart is still recovering from the shenanigans in June so I'm going to have to sit this one out. Thankfully, one of my favourite brand discoveries, 10A have just sent through a preview of their AW11 offering that I'm pleased to be able to share with you...

Daria Dazzan, an Italian-born twenty five year old former student at Antwerpʼs Royal Academy of Fine Arts, and her boyfriend, the product designer Matteo Cibic, recently unveiled their clothing line with the sly moniker and the brand has quickly gone from strength to strength. Last June, as I pinged the braces on the model I was able to talk through the concept and craftsmanship behind the brand with Daria Dazzan. In 2008, 10A created only ten pairs of trousers each month, on request of the pairs friends and through word of mouth. After two years, the success verified the brand, Daria and Matteo then decided to produce a collection of trousers in six sizes. 10A was born. Following a long search to sharpen the quality of the details, the refinement of the materials and the formal, a union between classic taste of the brace and the contemporary style of the trouser.

We have long declared that the real beauty of menswear is in the details and 10A 10A is a line that reacquaints us with an often overlooked detail, braces. Next week, 10A will present their AW 2011 menswear collection and introduces new styles and several other items in order to complete a menswear outfit. With this collection, the design duo have continued to build on the strengths of previous seasons and now offer a more complete contemporary interpretation of classic styles. The collection is made up of four trousers styles, developed and produced in over thirty fabrics, two tailored jackets, two slim cut shirts and two vegetable tanned leather bags for laptop or documents. What I love about this label is that, when creating each item the design duo focus on creating it slow and well. They cannot and should not be rushed and the end results are always something to savour...

It might just be time to brace myself with 10A

Finding W/A

I have felt decidedly delicate and fragile during the early stages of 2011. My head is weary, my body achey and I know I'm not the only one. Whether I'm at the office, on the bus or in the supermarket, the bodies around me resemble zombies. It is moments like these that we look to comforting clothing. Ever since my post on the comfort of grey jersey I have been searching for more examples of comforting clothing. Then I remembered the discovery of W/A inside the ever inspiring Hong Kong store, Kapok.

Created in collaboration with the multi label Singapore store Front Row earlier this year, W/A debuts for SS11. The new line was borne out of Jonathan Seow’s (designer of Woods & Woods) profound interest in re-examining basic-garment-types, examining whether there was a deeper essence in casual clothing. The debut offering, Bop my words draws references from the late counterculture American literary movement of the 40s and 50s and celebrates the free spirited attitude of the characters involved. It specifically looks to the collected biographies showcased in the short film, Pull My Daisy. The resulting collection plays with the duality of conservatism and eccentricity. Function and utility is key. Pieces have been designed for causal pairing and easy care that works so well with natural fabrics, such as cotton, linen and jacquard knits. Below are just a few of the items that caught my eye...

The label is currently only available at Front Row and Kapok.

W/A is a label that aims to find the most appropriate fit, cut and finishing techniques on many of the garments that we all take for granted. As a result, the label is not a work of conceptual motivation, but rather focuses on themes that allow for the development of garments and utilitarian products. Perfect for my somewhat delicate, current state.

Back to school feeling

Due to the fall of the calendar and the lengthy closure of my office, I have been able to enjoy the longest festive break since leaving university. Now, I find myself on the eve of returning back to work and I have to confess to having that back to school feeling. That odd mixture of reluctance on the one hand and an eagerness to fall back into some notion of routine on the other. This feeling has only been enhanced by the delivery of a late Christmas present from Ally Capellino. Instead of having to hunt the high street for the backpack that would hopefully attract envious glances from my friends as well as interest from the opposite sex (this boy had an odd thought process), the bag that would do just that was gift wrapped in the post. Life is full of surprises.

If only I had Alisdair on my back when I was at school instead of those head scratching-ly small and practically useless Nike drawstring abominations that were so popular during my youth. Perhaps this beauty would have persuaded Kelly Hurst to go out with me to the cinema and who knows, I could have settled in my home town and become a teenage dad to a whole flock of unruly children...on seconds perhaps it was a fortunate escape. Alistair is a heady mix of Harris Tweed and Italian leather. Now, if you've been reading this blog for any significant amount of time, you will know how deep my love is for Harris Tweed. The story of Harris Tweed is one of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean. I have lusted over this truly unique fabric for some time but back in November I was invited up to see the evolution and craft of the textile right before my very eyes. Ever since I left the island I have been keen to showcase the use of the fabric in all of its forms. From an intriguing collaboration with High Street heavyweight Topman to its continued use by the much coveted British designer, Nigel Cabourn. It is great to the see trademark Orb used by the likes of Ally Capellino.

During my Thirty years of Ally Capellino post I remarked that I'd happily sell an unnecessary body part in order to own one of its timeless, but never dull accessories.  Thankfully all of my body parts, however unnecessary are still present and correct. Each piece is made from beautiful durable leathers and fabrics that only improve with age and boy do I want to grow old with this present.

Its classic design includes a drawstring opening, tuck tight closure and bridle leather buckles.  As with all great menswear, the beauty is in the details. It has a sturdy leather base, chunky stitching detail and thick adjustable leather straps. Other features include a useful zip pocket on the side of the bag, and a zip pocket in its racing green lining. Lets take a closer look...

In addition to being an object of real striking beauty, Alisdair encapsulates the real highlights of 2010's blogging. The last twelve months have seen me celebrate quality craftsmanship, showcase British labels and highlight stunning materials. Thank you Ally Capellino, this bag will grow old with me and remind me that 2010 was a good one.