Armando Cabral AW11

Last season, after one of my many visits to the Showroom Next Door, I reported on a new shoe find that captured your attention. The name Armando Cabral might have been familiar to you at the time, but the debut of his eponymous shoe collection made you see him in a fresh light. Now, Cabral is quite simply one of the most recognisable male models but having already made his mark on the catwalk, his namesake shoe range was the next step. The footwear line sees Cabral team up with Rucky Zambrano who spearheaded innovation and technology at Vibram before serving as Head Designer for shoes and accessories at Hugo Boss. Together, they make quite a team. The combination of Cabral's innate style and Zambrano's eye for design and attention to detail has created an elegant addition to the men's footwear market.

The SS11 debut offered a full range of summer classics including desert boots, boating moccasin and woven sandals, all with an individual design signature and a colour palette that longed for the sunshine. For its sophomore collection, Armando Cabral takes inspiration from traveling, with a focus on Europe. Marking a continuity with the past season, there are classic sneakers, but these sit next to brand new designs which include boots inspired by the traditions of Northern Europe, and classic mountaineering styles that are ideal for the cold winter that no doubt lies ahead.

The reworked oxford. The style is much more subtle compared to some hybrids already on the market.

The leathers are, just like last season, stunning.

Reworked desert boots with flashes of colour. I have my eye on the Arsenal red pair above.

Mountaineering inspired boots.

Winter friendly boots that looked to Northern Europe for inspiration.

Hand-made in Italy out of the finest leathers, the collection introduces a fresh perspective on traditional styles, ranging from re-worked oxfords to hybrid desert boots. In only two short seasons, there is a sense that Armando Cabral is close to creating a fully rounded collection. The SS11 collection was devoted to the sunshine months and the AW11 collection prepares for a long, varied winter.

Earlier this week, I flicked through Tommy Ton's selection of LFW snapshots over at GQ and was instantly struck by the parade of fresh, out of the box shoes. Was I the only person who didn't and instead preferred to wear an old favourite (my Kudu boots). Did I miss the memo? If I follow the masses in September, don't be at all surprised if you see me marching through puddles in a fresh pair  of Armando Cabral desert boots.

Celebrity Style: Leather

Skins dominate collections on the catwalks of fall / winter 2010-11.
Of all the fur coats, applications, jackets, coats, hats, boots, handbags, add a touch of luxury fur clothes.
Celebrities have quickly embraced this trend and showed the skin's natural or synthetic.

Rachel Zoe with a faux fur coat from her collection for QVC

 

 

 

 

Surorile Kardashian, Kim cu cu Kourtney blank blank Fendi's faux Juicy Couture

Mary Kate Olsen

Olivia Palermo

Eva Mendes

 

 

Kelly Rowland

Leather in Elle Russia February 2011

Last post, I mentioned the love for the leather pieces by the Swedish label, House of Dagmar, and this time it's all about the leather pieces by Chanel, Blumarine and Bel Air featured in Elle Russia February 2011. I want every item. Leather pieces are those pieces of clothing that you really should invest in, as leather is timeless. A great leather skirt looks so chic and fabulous with a sheer, white shirt (or a grey shirt with a plunging neckline as in look 1), and a fitted leather jacket is an essential in every wardrobe, as it is perfect to make an outfit more rough and edgy.

What leather pieces are essential to you?

Source: Fashion Gone Rouge

Street Chic in Elle Turkey February 2011

I often get very inspired by editorials that are based around street style. Especially when there is leopard, leather and khaki coloured coats involved. I wish that I had every piece to create outfit no. 1 so I could wear it right now. Khaki with leopard print is gorgeous, and the splash of red fits perfectly into the mix.

Source: Fashion Gone Rouge

A year on with... Sarah Williams

As we excitedly edge closer to LCF's MA_11 festival, I'm still left wondering has it really been twelve months since I was first introduced to the talents of the 2010 crop. As you might recall, I was utterly blown away by the menswear design talent on show. From the nineteen students who were showcased in the 2010 show, it was the menswear that really shone through and I covered their collections in some detail in the subsequent months. This series of features began with Sarah Williams and her mind bending luxurious luggage.

Now, if I have found the last twelve months a little fast, Williams must have experienced something of a whirlwind of success. Since completing her MA in Fashion Artefact, Williams went on to set up her own label, Williams Handmade and has won two hugely prestigious awards at International Talent Support (ITS) for Accessory Collection of the Year and the Absolut Vodka award for accessories, and has taken part in LFW as part of Fashion East's menswear installations. In addition to developing her next collection which will be shown at ITS Ten, she is curently working with British leathergoods brand, Daines and Hathaway. By any standards this has been a hugely inspiring year for the next crop of MA graduates.

Williams has previously described that "Completing the MA Fashion Artefact course at LCF was one of the most challenging and rewarding that I have ever done. It provided me with a geat platform to launch my career from." Before we enthusiastically greet the crop of 2011, we just had to learn more about Williams' year and to secure her advice for future students,,,

SS: The last twelve months must have been something of a whirlwind as it is has seen you graduate, receive plaudits and awards around the globe, work with one of England's luxurious leather goods companies, presented at LFW and found the time to work on a new collection. Have I missed anything? Describe the last twelve months in your own words..

Sarah Williams: I think you managed to sum it all up there. It sounds a bit overwhelming when its all written down. It has been an extremely exciting and busy year. I have learnt so much from being thrust into the "real" world, after the bubble of university. I have also met a lot of really interesting and influential people and have been so humbled by everyone's comment and willingness to help me.

SS: Looking back over your year, ITS must be one of the real standout moments. In July you were invited to Trieste for the ninth year if ITS. Supported by Diesel, the design competition brings young fashion hopefuls together. Congratulations on picking up the Absolut award as well as the ITS Accessories collection of the year award. What can you tell us about the experience? What effect has the award had on Williams-Handmade?

Sarah Williams: ITS literall was one of the best weeks of my life. The whole experience from the moment we got off the plane, everyone from the organisers of ITS, the judges and all of the other finalists were so helpful, friendly and supportive. It was a great chance do some networking and meet many people which I would not have had chance to otherwise. Winning the award has a had a massive impact on Williams Handmade. Without the prize money it would have been very diffcult to be able to fund my new collection, so it has been really vital. I can not wait to go back to Trieste and present my new collection, although I am a bit nervous about how it will be received.

SS: You hoped to use craft to produce something which has never been seen before and to challenge the fashion industry's view on craftsmanship and how it can be used to produce something completely original. Have you been surprised by the reaction? How happy are you that you've accomplished these aims?

Sarah Williams: I was completely overwhelmed by the postive reaction that the collection received. I never expected to receive so much positive press. I am happy that most reports of the collection back up and suppport my views, whether I have actually made a change, I am not sure about that yet, I think there is still a lot to be done.

SS: Now, as part of your prize, you will be presenting your new collection at ITS Ten. At this early and secretive stage, what can you tell us about the collection?

Sarah Williams: The only think I can say is that my values have remained the same, but this time I have taken inspiration from an icon who shares these values. The rest is, I'm afraid is "top secret".

SS: Craftsmanship was the starting point to your concept and it is what the collection is based upon, but it developed to involve many other issues. In our previous interview, you mentioned the challenging the differences between the artisan and the artist, between design and fashion. Has your altered? Have you encountered any new challenges?

Sarah Williams: I suppose I have now seen both sides as I have produced bespoke artisan pieces for private orders and I have also worked as a designer at Daines and Hathaway. I hope with my new collection, that although I want to carry on with the bespoke more original items, to also produce some items which although made with a high level of craftsmanship are still affordable. As far as I can see the only problem (if it is one) with bespoke hand crafted items is that they inevitably become very expensive, and therefore elitist. I hope to overcome this with my new collection, whether I will achieve this I don't know yet.

SS: What would you like to achieve in 2011 and beyond?

Sarah Williams: Following launching my new collection at ITS, I would like to be able to show at LFW again and to get Williams Handmade products stocked in stores. As such I would like to go into some type of hand crafted production. I would also like to see a successful new collection for Daines and Hathaway where I am working.

SS:Finally, what advice would give the next crop of talented LCF MA graduates?

Sarah Williams: Enjoy the next year ahead of you.

Williams Handmade.

Travel Organised

Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.

This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.

Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Advent - Day Twenty Three

3939 launched as a lifestyle and retail concept located in the basement of a well loved Japanese restaurant, Life just last month. Set up by three creative friends in Tatsuo, Pippa and Peter. Both the physical and digital spaces showcase the trios unique ideas, collaborations and exclusive products which have been developed in association with the craftsmen and talent that they all adore. This is a truly independent project driven forward by the determination to offer something different. 3939 incorporates a unique point of view and leaves me excited in the process. Having provided me with a wealth of present options for my nearest and dearest, I just had to find out what was on Tatsuo Hino's Christmas list and here it is...

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ELEPHANT RING BY DOG STATE

The item is the 'Elephant Ring' by Dog State . I have actually ordered to have it resized for me when I am back from Japan early next year. It is made by my friend, Toshi, who is based in London and trained at the Great Frog for eight years as residential shop keeper and designer. What I like about it is that the detailing about the face is so intricate. I cannot wait to wear this!

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LEWIS D LTD 204A FLYING BOOTS

My ideal Christmas gift would be the Lewis D Ltd Flying boots with shearing inside. I recently tried a pair on at the Lewis Leathers store. They were reintroduced the boots back into the range after carefully researching them right down the to the correct buckles of the original pair from the 30s. The shearling lining is sourced from a Tannery in the West Country, the leather nowadays is a high grade Cowhide for durability during everyday wear, soles are leather and the heels are rubber with a pattern identical to those found on many vintage RAF flying boots. They are a classic with heritage, sleek but modern and functional boot commanding a reasonable price (£350) for what they are.

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Introducing (ki:ts)

At this time of year it is difficult to resist the temptation to take a step back and assess the moments that have materialised over the last twelve months. With this in mind, a year in menswear summary will certainly be posted before we wave goodbye to 2010 but there are still a few moments to experience, labels to discover and collections to covet before. However, I can hint that our review will include my thoughts on a revived retail scene in London and indeed beyond. I have visited a myriad of newly opened stores in recent months and my faith in the future of menswear retail has been restored. During two of these visits a certain accessories brand has caught my eye. Up till now I have merely hinted at my admiration for (ki:ts). No longer. Trunk Clothiers first brought the label to my attention and and then 3939 duly reminded me of the fine leather accessory range. This weekend I met up with the man behind the label, Takaharu Osako to be talked through the current offering.

A look inside Trunk...
Woven belt by Ki:ts, boots by Common Projects, bag by BAG'n'NOUN and scarves by Drakes.

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2003, Osako learnt his trade at Alexander McQueen before taking a design position at Jas MB. Last year, driven my his passion for handmade craft, he set up his own clothing and accessories brand. Taking its name from the dictionary pronunciation of the great English Romantic poet John Keats and Osako's desire to kit out the modern gentleman, (ki:ts) was formed. The label is an all too tempting cocktail of old, authentic elements mixed with modern technology and the pursuits of modern life. The accessory range takes its inspiration from the materials and craft which help create each accessory. These beautiful leather accessories are hand finished one-by-one in order not to ruin the natural feeling of the leather. Each season Osako makes up to one hundred and fifty belts and bracelets. The variety of fine Italian leathers are teamed up with sundries and buckles inspired from British horse riding and falconry detailing...

The Ki:ts range in 3939

Retrowood buckle bracelet.

Double Small Buckle Leather belt.

A close up of beautiful leather.

Black leather belt.

Surprisingly, the label is currently only Osako's fruitful hobby. He still works as an assistant designer at Jas MB by day and then dedicates his spare time to create each carefully crafted (ki:ts) product. The range itself, in addition to the stockists who buy in to the label slowly grows each season and this is how he wants it to remain. It was a pleasure to see his passion first hand, it was contagious and I could not walk away empty handed. During our discussion, the designer noticed that I was particularly taken by the retrowood versions. Up till then I had never seen such a leather in person. Amazingly, at the end of the range run through he gifted me with a bracelet version...

The wood effect bracelet in front of my Christmas tree.

Just look at the detailing...

I could not resist buying a belt for myself and opted for the stunning double buckle belt. I can't remember seeing anything quite like this before and I certainly do not own anything similar so it is a welcome addition to my accessory options.

The double buckle belt.

A closer look at the double buckle.

Osaka sources vintage fixtures for many of his belts.

I find it nigh on impossible to resist the charms of a label such as (ki:ts) and why should I? Takaharu Osako dedicates his evenings and free time to create each accessory by hand. Each accessory is carefully cut, shaped and polished and driven by his passion for fine leather craftsmanship. I'm looking forward to watching this label continue to slowly and organically grow over the coming seasons and beyond.

Gifts for me, myself and I

Earlier this year I waxed lyrical about my retail crush on Hong Kong's institution of a specialty store, Lane Crawford. After a number of longing glances from across the ocean, this blossoming long distance affair took a surprising turn with the age of my new love coming to light. This season, Lane Crawford is remarkably one hundred and sixty years old. Founded in 1850 by Thomas Ash Lane and Ninian Crawford, it has evolved to become a leading luxury specialty store offering a wide selection of mouth watering brands. Celebrating its one hundred and sixtieth anniversary, Lane Crawford proudly launched Heritage 160 for AW10. To honour the rich history and unique past of the store, as well as its strong relationships with top brands, designers and talents from around the world, Heritage 160 featured a series of programmes and events throughout the season. The celebrations culminated last Thursday with with a ceremony and a launch event at its mind blowing flagship store at IFC mall. It was a celebration to remember and thank the many generations of families who have worked and shopped with Lane Crawford, and ultimately woven the fabric that has built 160 years of traditions and community in Hong Kong. Thankfully, I was invited out to join the celebrations.

The theme for the day was Play and play we most certainly did. The flagship space was transformed in to a dream like arcade park. Guests and celebrities alike all lined up to play favourite games, including ping pong, air hockey, car racing, pool and testing their skill at the claw machine. I tried my luck on the air hockey and ping pong tables. I came up short with a racket in my hand but Susie delivered the goods with her vicious puck bashing. Now, I rarely win anything. Having grown up losing pound after pound in the slot machines that preyed on the young and the bored of Margate it felt good to win and win big. My prize came in a special blue box...

That special blue box that so many crave.

Now, if I did win anything in my previous life the winnings would normally still leave me short on what I ploughed in to the machine. Here however my luck changed for the better. A pair of embroidery adorned Lanvin cufflinks were found inside. I'm undecided whether they are a pair of skulls or monkeys but either way, I love them dearly and thank Lane Crawford (included eagle eyed accessories buyer Marco Lau) greatly.

A closer look of the cufflinks inside.

Having raised our glasses and partied with this Hong Kong institution our appetite for gifts was undoubtedly whet. The following morning (with a pair of slightly sore heads) we returned to the IFC store to explore the space in its returned state. After admiring the brand packed menswear floor (highlights include Nigel Cabourn, Kolor, Junya Watanabe, AI and the Cambridge Satchel Company to name but a few) we headed to the shoe department. It was here that I fell head of hi top heel for a pair of Lanvin's. Top of my footwear lust list has always been a pair of Lanvin hi tops.

My latest shoe obsession.

Now, you might recall that when I hit the quarter of a century mark, Susie knew me all too well and bought me the best present ever. Fast forward a couple of years and Susie saw that my eyes had lit up by a wool and leather combination for AW10. Having had the fires of gifting ignited within by the Lane Crawford party, she opted to treat me to a pair of these flocked grey, navy and maroon weave hi tops. Amazing. An early Christmas gift. I have been spoiled rotten and it feels good. Let's take a closer look at this pair of pulse racing, texture rich trainers...

A texture rich close up.

And another. Oh, I'm in love.

Later that day, we ventured to another retail favourite of this bustling city, Kapok. This small but perfectly formed store is an arbiter of good taste. With each visit there is temptation everywhere within its four walls. After recently featuring the latest offering from local accessories label Seventy Eight Per Cent I could not resist taking a closer. This closer look then led to a purchase of the real highlights of the new Harrison Fold collection, the Gustav. Having been treated by Lane Crawford and then by Susie, it was only fitting for me to treat myself, right......right?

As Shai Levy conceded in our recent interview, Harrison Fold was an interesting collection to design in several aspects. Firstly, it was a collaboration between himself and Harold Poon, a young talented designer who joined Seventy Eight Percent after graduating design school in Australia. Secondly, it had to meet the high expectations following the success of the Back To Old School Collection but at the same time be different. The inspiration initially came from waterproof outdoor bags that have roll top closures (hence the Fold in the title), and was influenced by Indiana Jones' shoulder bag.

Gustav itself is a designer Messenger Bag, designed to carry your belongings in comfort and style. It is spacious and well organized with pockets to stash my everyday essentials. The bags are engineered to fulfill people’s practical needs and are built to last. The Japanese wax coated canvas and Italian vegetable tanned leather are designed to age gracefully (far more so than this blogger). It makes for a fine present for myself.

One utterly spoiled me. Gustav messenger by Seventy Eight Percent and hi tops from Lanvin worn with black trousers from Tim Soar and a crombie coat from ASOS Black. 

Happy birthday Lane Crawford and thank you for igniting the flames of this gifting frenzy. Now, having been spoiled, I better make a start on my Christmas shopping.