Showing posts with label Trends. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trends. Show all posts

Friday, March 26, 2010

Inspiration for the now

With so much focus and attention diverted to the future in fashion it is easy to forget which season it actually is. Now, my mind is a little over stimulated with all of the AW10 look books and Press Day visits so as it is Friday afternoon lets step away from gazing in to our style crystal balls and savour the moment, the emergence of now, of Spring. Yet another discovery from Hong Kong (sorry to keep mentioning the trip) illustrates this desire perfectly...

Lane Crawford's 'The Portfolio' provides much inspiration for the present.

As mentioned previously, shopping is an important facet of everyday life here and practically everyone indulges in a bit of consumerism on a daily basis. During my last trip back in November I enjoyed in a spot of window shopping and brand discovery at Joyce, this time round it was Lane Crawford. In addition to marveling at Kim Jones' pop up store (as described below) I was impressed by the array of design talent stocked for SS10 and even more so by the department stores in house magazine The Portfolio. The highlight of which was the Midsummer Odyssey editorial which demonstrated all of the key season trends in an utterly beautiful way. In fact, I'm hard pushed to think of a stronger spread in any of my favourite magazines!

Desert Storm. Acne shirt, Rag & Bone tee, Wings & Horn trousers, Burberry Prorsum bag and bracelet and Cole Haan shoes.

The Porfolio showcases the apparent scaling back on previous seasons as showcased in the SS10 shows. The structured tailoring excess of the last season were forgotten. SS10 was littered with understated looks consisting of wardrobe staples that can travel confidently from work days and weekends alike. Casual wear came in a vibrant variety of wardrobe essentials that included tribal print designs, paint splashed pieces, military inspired separates and feather light knitwear. Delicately rendered cardigans, soft summer trench coats, feather light knitwear and trousers that drape slightly at the hem exude a restrained sense of luxury.

I just wish this could be my Spring/Summer uniform. Yves Saint Lauren cardigan, Rag & Bone tee, 3. Phillip Lim trousers and Pierre Hardy sandals.

There was certainly an Eastern promise feel to a number of key collections. Tribal patterns, graphic motifs and patchwork designs formed a colourful explosion of prints on the runway. Drawing inspiration from the Orient and North Africa, designers such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga ro name but a few, successfully delivered a rich and expressive range of textiles that are ideal for the months ahead.

Givenchy sandals. White Mountaineering jacket and Yves Saint Laurent trousers.

Richardo Tisci in particular created a collection full of ethnic impressions at Givenchy. The collection saw a refreshing mix of formal tailoring and punk attitude, an aggressive army of sportswear shapes and codes reinvented in tartan, middle-eastern prints and monochrome jerseys. As with a number of other shows, classics were modified for the utility requirements of the new season. A variety of military inspired jackets with zip detailing, garments with multiple pockets and practical accesories including backpacks and stylish holdalls.

Utility and sportswear. Ralph Lauren vest, Diet Butcher slim skin jacket, White montaineering trousers, Givenchy shoes and backpack.

One of my favourite aspects of the SS10 shows was the sense that sartorial elegance took on a different interpretation as meticulous and architectural tailoring gave way to a more relaxed silhouette. The overall attitude for the warmer months is one of effortlessness and nonchalance. Designers inclusing Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen all unveiled collections of subtly draped jackets and relaxed tailored pieces.

One of my favourite looks from the spread. Acne jacket, Alexander McQueen shirt, Armani Collezioni trousers and Raf Simons belt.

As the sun becomes a more constant feature in the sky above I think it is time we all reminded ourselves of the diversity of styles from this current season. Right from the understated soft tailoring and functional utililitarianism, to the vibrancy of ethnic influences and the modern artisans, it is time we dress for the now.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Kudu, will do now that I have my boots

The waiting game is over...Lodger's Kudu Brogued Boot.

After interviewing Lodger's Nathan Brown back in September my imagination was overwhelmed following his description of his September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot. From this moment on I have been day dreaming about them gracing my feet during the coming winter months and beyond. When the Clifford Street store released the first images of the boot I fell head over bootless heels. They were the boots I had dreamed of wearing this winter but until then did not know they actually existed. After placing my order in September I have been patiently...screw that...desperately waiting for that moment when I could take them home.

The boots gracing my feet...(worn with Unconditional wool trousers)

The wait was undoubtedly worth it. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. The craftsman in Northampton have created something truly beautiful out of that antique African antelope hide. As there was only a certain amount of kudu leather available Lodger could only make around twenty five pairs or so. There was only one parcel of this wonderfully battered and aged leather remaining, and the two tanneries that know how to produce it have ceased operation. Once this leather is gone, it is gone forever and my resolve did not last too long and I'm so pleased that I am one of the fortunate few...

Spoken for...My boots were made on 16th October 2009

Lace up boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot. They were employed with great effect in a number of Autumn Winter 09 shows, including Alexander Mcqueen, Calvin Klein, Rick Owens, Lanvin and I let's not forget my particular favourite Tim Hamilton. Last year's February shows demonstrated that they can be both smart and causal. Thankfully this AW09 experimentation with boots continued through to a few of my favourite AW10 shows. Not surprisingly Rick Owens did not deviate too much from his futuro-goth aestheticand this included showcasing beautiful boots and cropped tailored trousers. However, there so many lace up boots used in a wonderful and inspiring variety of ways. From Damir Doma's monastic looks to Burberry's military inspired outerwear. From Dunhill's travelling gentleman (as below) to Lanvin's urban warriors. They are a catalyst for the silhouette whilst accentuating both skinny and loose fitting trousers. Lace up leather boots are undoubtedly a true staple of the season and now that I have my beloved Kudu boots in my possession I just had to experiment integrating them in to a few looks...

Relaxed tailoring...Carolyn Massey for Topman Lens scarf coat, red cord shirt from Uniqlo, Carolyn Massey mittens, Maison Martin Margiela trousers.

An air of the military...My trusty old favourite (but often forgotten) Zara coat styled up with a black patent belt from Topman, Carolyn Massey cable knit jumper, Unconditional wool trousers.

Updating my everyday uniform..Custom made suit jacket by j.a.daye worn with polka dot pocket square from Muji, blue oxford shirt from Uniqlo, Oliver Spencer patterned jumper and my slightly battered A.P.C jeans.

A close up shot of my favourite look which demonstrates the mix of textures and patters.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Time for action

Time for action? Drawstring sheer top by Omar Kashoura.

After the month of excess that is December, every New Year brings a few heavy breaths and much belly surveying followed by the utterance that 'I'm going to be more active this year." Perhaps you profess that you will join a gym, take up pilates or jogging, or maybe you'll just cycle to work more often. Unfortunately these will end up either being short lives promises or downright lies on the most part. However, do not despair and throw down your skipping rope accepting your tubby fate before replacing it with a super deluxe chocolate eclair. You can look to the Spring Summer 09 shows for inspiration. Fashion156 have just unveiled the Sports Issue which is packed full of fashion inspired by and celebrating in those sweaty, active pursuits it tends to avoid. The time to be more active, or at the least appear so...is now.

From left to right. White neoprene shirt by Yang Li, black trousers by Matteo Bigliardi. Jacket by Yang Li shorts by Nicomede. Vest by Yang Li and shorts by Nicomede. Charcoal suit by Yang Li.

As we have all come to expect from our favourite online magazine, the real highlight can be found within the editorial pages. The sport inspired Fashion section showcases LFW favourites Carolyn Massey, Tim Soar, Lou Dalton and Satyenkumar along with emerging design talent including the likes of Omar Kashoura and Georgy Baratashvili whilst throwing up the freshest talent with Nicomede Talavera (current CSM student we caught up with last autumn) and Yang Li. This is the type of fashion which I'm prepared to run to the bus for.

Navy shorts and navy sliced tee by Lou Dalton

As soon as I flicked through the latest issue my mind raced back to an article I read by Dean Mayo Davies which talked about the tension that now exists in fashion. The confrontation between the sartorialism of the gentleman and the most active and reactive codes of sportswear. In the post he includes a comment by Casette Playa's Carri Mundane which keeps playing on my mind;

"It's a privilege to not have to wear a suit but still be in a position of power. The same way that working-class mods subverted the suit, taking the attributes of conformity by charging them with menace and the threat of violence. Sportswear now is no longer about performance but a refusal to conform."

A number of the more progressive SS10 shows (Ann Demeulemeester, Giuliano Fujiwara, Calvin Klein, Juun J, JW Anderson, Damir Doma to name but a few) demonstrated graphic shapes, bold attitudes and even more interestingly tech derived fabrics. Despite the obvious tension within the different schools of fashion, I am enjoying watching these two aesthetics challenge and push one another forward on the runway and on the street.

Black trousers and blue jacket by Carolyn Massey.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Boots for the wilderness

Looks from Tim Hamilton's Aw09 collection.

Fashion moves so fast and at this point in to a season I am always a little confused. As the nights come earlier and the days that bit cooler I never know quite what to write about because most of my inspiration is somewhere in the future. Everything around me is geared towards SS10 (look books, press days etc) but in the real world it feels as though we are only just entering Aw09. I feel like I am lost in the great unknown, the fashion wilderness, no man's land. What does one need in the wilderness? Boots of course.

These boots are made for walking...and looking like a modern day dandy. Lanvin Aw09

Lace up boots can be something of a sartorial testosterone shot. They were employed with great effect in a number of Autumn Winter shows, including Alexander Mcqueen, Calvin Klein, Rick Owens, Lanvin and of course, my particular favourite Tim Hamilton. The February shows demonstrated that they can be both smart and causal. This experimentation trickled through to a number of look books, most notably in Christophe Lemaire's offering which saw the French designer use them effectively throughout the relaxed volume and natural textures of his collection. They are a true staple of the season. A catalyst for the silhouette whilst accentuating both skinny and loose fitting trousers.

The waiting game. Lodger's Kudu Brogued Boot.

Regular readers will know that I fell head over heels for Lodger's September shoe of the month, the Kudu Brogued Boot and I am now (im)patiently waiting their delivery. The wait will undoubtedly be worth it. The boot is an eight eyelet brogued style, and has a skeleton lining of the same Kudu leather as the upper, and a full lining in a plush purple velvet from Scabal. As there is only a certain amount of kudu leather available Lodger can only make around twenty five pairs or so. With this in mind and to pass the time until I can shoe horn my feet in to my beloved Kudu's I have trawled through the best of the rest online. There are just so many beautiful boots available online. If you too are stumbling around the fashion wilderness then take a look at the offerings below...

The best of the rest list (clockwise from top left):
  • Raf Simons for Dr Martens 8 hole boot: Raf Simons works his magic on a simple and classic 8 hole DM boot in a black leather. Available from oki-ni.
  • Ann Demeulemeester buckle lace up worker boots: Black leather lace-up worker boots from Ann Demeulemeester featuring a buckled strap around the top of the boot. Fine if you have a spare £695. Available from farfetch.
  • B Store suede lace up worker boot: Navy suede ankle boot from b Store with seam detailing and grey laces. Available from farfetch and bstore.
  • Trickers Tan Leather boot: Something of a classic. Tan leather brogue style lace-up boots by Trickers. Available from farfetch.
  • Alexander McQueen ‘Calamity Halfboot’: A sturdy leather lace up boot with a double side zip detail, heel pull and heavy treaded Vibram sole. Available from oki-ni.
  • Mr. Hare Kerouac: The Kerouac is a man’s boot with a little romanticism and some healthy disrespect for the rules. It’s an adventure boot. It was oh so tempting when I first saw the collection and I was close to buying a pair. Must resist buying a pair now but they are so gooood...Available from oki-ni.
  • Bed Stu Leather boot: An antiqued black leather boot with leather lining and sole. Five eyelet laceup. Available from Oak.
  • Lanvin Leather lace up ankle boots: The "I wish I were rich" boots. These black leather lace-up ankle boots have wool detailing on both sides. Available at Browns.
  • F-Troupe Black Sheepskin Hi Top: If all of the above are just too aspirational, how about this pair from f-troupe? The classic shape gets a winter upgrade with a shearling upper. Available from Oak.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

An afternoon flicking through 'When you're a boy'

(When you're a boy) You can wear a uniform (When you're a boy) Other boys check you out (You get a girl) These are you favourite things (When you're a boy)
David Bowie and Brian Eno, Boys Keep Swinging (1979)


Two weeks have passed since the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery and the closest I've got to the images is the Gallery Shop whilst seeking shelter from (one of many) Summer downpours. Alas, we just didn't have enough time to explore the exhibition space fully so rather than trudge my sodden hi tops around I just picked up the exhibition catalogue. For those of you who have not been to able to see the exhibition yet, why not make yourself a cup of tea, sit in a comfy chair and pour over the pages as I have done this afternoon and marvel at Foxton's amazing body of work...

From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986

The exhibition explores exactly what a great stylist contributes to a fashion photograph beyond selecting clothes and dressing models. Through the impressive body of work of pre-eminent menswear stylist, the exhibition traces the growth and development of men's fashion over the past three decades. Foxton has deservedly built himself a reputation as one of the leading image-makers of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design throughout. the 80s, 90s and 00s. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair McLellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans. Foxton's contribution to fashion photography goes way beyond the production process that precede a shoot, and towards offering a benchmark of taste; it is a singular world view. In combination with longstanding photographic partners (Knight, Evans, McLellan) who each bring their own specific perspectives to bear on the work produced, Foxton's unique perspective inspires discrete and different bodies of work.

Left: From 'Punk', photographed by Nick Knight. Published in The Face, Feb 1986. Right: From 'War' photographed by Nick Knight. Version published in Big, No.18, 1987

Elements of the styling practice that Foxton had been responsible for popularising in the 1980s - street casting, customisation, inveigling non-fashion accessories into shoots, using 'model's' own clothing - were crucial in shaping the identity of my favourite magazines whilst growing up and beyond. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to my favourite magazines and more including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same.

From 'Strictly', photgrpahed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, July 1991

There is a great Penny Martin interview with Simon Foxton in his garden shed featured inside the catalogue, below are a few of my favourite questions and answers...

Penny Martin: How did you make the shift from designing to styling?
Simon Foxton: When I had my own little design company, I found the whole process of from imagining the clothing to the realisation and production such a long, laborious and tedious journey. The idea that I could come up with ways of dressing people to make them look different and for it to happen almost immediately was like a big light going on in my head. I thought "I don't have to deal with factories in the East End, or order buttons. I can actually come up with ideas and make them happen within a week."

From 'Hey there fancy pants', photographed by Jason Evans. Published in i-D, May 2004

Penny Martin: If not money, what do you think still motivates you after twenty five years?
Simon Foxton: It is only when you stop and look at it, like now, with doing an exhibition, that you think "God, I have been doing this for twenty five years! Why?" I don't know. It is partly because it is fun. The commercial things can be tough but the editorial is usually great: having a freehand to make images. Once that whole character is there, it's almost like giving birth. I've created this thing and it's like "wow, I've not seen that before, a person dressed in that way." That is enough for me.

From 'Atlas', photographed by Alasdair McLellan. Published in Arena Homme Plus, AW 2003/04

With wit, sophistication and irreverence, Foxton continues to redefine perceptions of masculinity with his uniquely thrilling and fantastical portrayals of men. During his twenty five year career, Foxton has evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography. An approach which sees him balance a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion and truly deserves this exhibition. If you are in town anytime from today until October 17th, you have to make a trip to this exhibition...if you've already been, please let us know what you thought.

Selection of shots published in i-D, unpublished work and webcasts on SHOWstudio.com

Monday, July 27, 2009

Les mêmes lunettes

In a slight change to our normal posting, I thought I'd present you with a new feature: Style Blogger Glasses Trendwatch 2009 (note: may not be a regular feature)

Take special note of Thom's lovely white trousersThe classic: 'why are you still taking photos of us' look

Some of you may know that we recently met up with Thomas Wong and his lovely fiance Sharon in Paris. Stood side by side, I couldn't help noticing that Steve and Thom had something in common. Later on (sadly I don't have a photo, but maybe Steve will be so kind as to provide one) I noticed that they shared this with another friend of ours. That's right: tortoiseshell, thick framed glasses are taking over. This may be highly contagious. Watch out for the tell-tale symptoms in your local men's fashion blogger.

(Additional: this man had rather nice shoes so I just had to sneak a shot. Click to enlarge and then tell me the make.)
That's Steve on the right, trying to block my shot

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Style Spy at Amsterdam Fashion Week

Susie was invited out to Amsterdam Fashion Week so has spent the last few days in the Dutch capital. As well as her own official business and blogging of the event she has also donned her mac, dark glasses and trilby as she style spied for us. Her solid recommendation was NON by Kim's SS10 collection titled Inventorum Natura...

Founded in 2007, the Dutch designer Kim Bakker is a new find for me. Looking through her first few collections she mutates the archetypes of men’s garments to push and explore the boundaries of menswear. This third collection of Kim Bakker takes us in to the wonderfully weird realm of flesh eating plants. The collection reflects parts of this world, the agthered constructions and wired seams give the garments an organic and clean cut feel. An interesting balance is created between lightweight and textured materials achieving fluid layered silhouettes and a feeling of motion. Now, it might be because I am a little sleep deprived at the moment (a combination of late nights, howling at the moon because of Susie's absence and a few too many drinks) but I am most intrigued by the textured tights worn under the shorts. Of course we have seen Ricardo Tisci experiment with this styling for the past few seasons but it is interesting to see quite so many of his peers play with this idea, Kim Bakker pulls it off most admirably here.

Friday, July 17, 2009

When you're a boy opens

Iconic Foxton images taken from FTape article.

I had to leave London on Wednesday for a couple of days to pay my respects to my old nan who passed away at the tender age of ninety five. The outside world unfortunately didn't stop with me and I missed out the chance to be shot by the Sartorialist as part of a Burberry promotion (there should be further opportunities if I follow the flow chart) along with the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery (fortunately Susie did and she has confirmed what I thought, it is amazing!). The exhibition celebrates men in fashion and is the first exhibitions to focus on the work of a stylist as opposed to a photographer.

Images from The Face Feb 1986 shot by Nick Knight... oh The Face how I miss you...

With a career spanning three decades, Foxton has built himself a reputation as a leading image-maker of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design over this period. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair Mclellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans.

After graduating from St. Martin's College of Art and Design in 1983, he set up his own design label, Bazooka. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to our favourite magazines including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same. Foxton evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography which balances a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion.

Simon Foxton has been keeping sketchbooks since 1981, here is a look inside one of them...

Although I missed out on the opening night, I did however get the chance to ask the great stylist a question, albeit through the wonderful Fred Butler. Fred asked for question contributions via her twitter and I made sure that I didn't miss my chance. The full interview can and should be read here but for now, here is the question I asked along with the answer:

"Ive read that you keep a box under your bed for inspiration containing tear outs from magazines. How do you formulate your ideas from these scraps?"
I can now confirm that this is the case. Simon doesn't believe in stacking up smelly old back issues and prefers to make a more considered and concise reference bank. If an image resonates with him, it winds up ripped out and glued in. These scrapbooks are a personal vehicle to consolidate his own vision, affirming his taste and form a reminder of ideas and direction. Curator Penny Martin got involved from trawling this primary starting point, all the way through to ordering the space at The Photographer's Gallery. The two of them rooted through the archive boxes and Penny assertively assisted Simon to weed out the cream of the crop for this first show. According to Simon there is a great more to be exhibited but it could not be accommodated this time.

Another look inside on his scrapbooks.

Dazed Digital recently published a nice interview with Simon and included some amazing images of the stylists shed where his ideas are formulated. I need a shed just like this, the quality of blog posts would surely improve if I had my own inspiration filled hideway...

If you are in town anytime from today until October 17th, you have to make a trip to this exhibition. Now that I am back in London (for the afternoon atleast) I will make a trip down.

Monday, July 13, 2009

A closer look at BUCK's 'Of the Mountains' editorial

The leading image from 'Of the mountains'

There has been a distinct lack of inspirational editorials in the latest issues of my favourite magazines so it is great to see so many strong online offerings. For the latest round of editorials over on Buckstyle, the fashion team each picked a major trend for the season each. Fashion Director Elliott James Sainsbury chose ‘mountaineering’ and is my early favourite. Of The Mountains features pieces by the likes of Omar Kashoura, JW Anderson, Woolrich Woolen Mills and Christopher Raeburn alongside highlight pieces from the high street and vintage shop finds to create some of the strongest yet attainable looks around. As we are online buddies with Elliott, I couldn't resist a closer look at the editorial and who better to run through the inspirations and designer picks than the man himself...

Key pieces: On the left, Parachute hoody by Christopher Raeburn, trousers by J.W. Anderson. On the right, hooded top and jogging bottoms by Topman Design. Vintage cap and small bag (worn as necklace) from Beyond Retro. Leather compass by J.W. Anderson,

On the inspiration:

"It seems there's a lot of 'mountaineering' style about at the minute. Inspired by that mix of sport and street, as worn so well by people like John Skelton, Way Perry, Kyle from goodhood. I also adore workwear, and think it all slots together. Juan and I had been meeting for about a month beforehand discussing what we'd like to do, he is very technical with lighting and was inspired by the Dunhill ads with Peter Saville in them (please check out, they are amazing) and an Oscar Wilde quote about being in an asylum. We liked that idea of pushing against walls, unnatural poses. We wanted a very detailed and busy background, complex styling... it took a lot of planning, each pose, the lighting and the clothes were very specifically chosen, each shot/look has a sort of coded meaning... for me it is about inner strength, determination and an internal metaphorical mountain. Clothes as armour, tooling yourself up, loading it on and fortifying yourself against the world... it was important to not be too literal as initially I thought of having it in a forest, but inside gave a totally unexpected feel. I researched explorers like Mallory etc. and loads of images to check that my notions were correct."

Key pieces: On the left, shirt by Oliver Spencer, cropped knit by Makin Jan Ma and necklace by JW Anderson,. On the right, plaid shiort and waistcoat by Woolrich Woolen Mills , satchel backpack by Harris Elliott for b Store.

On the colours:

"I wanted the colours to be a bit 'sick', to push it a bit further... hence the neon backpacks with a navajo shirt, pink with khaki. For me the most important thing is the little things, incoprorating the model's keys, strapping belts across the chest etc."

On the location:
"We shot it in the RIBA building in Portland Place (I think?), it was a really smooth day. The model Laurie was fantastic and is in a band, we had a great team on the day."

Key pieces: On the left, anorak by Christopher Raeburn, backpack and cable necklace by JW Anderson, gloves by Topman. On the right, beige coat and plastic bolero by Omar Kashoura, navajo shirt from Beyond Retro.

On the designers:

"Nigel Cabourn's clothes are fascinating, good to see such an icon coming back. I love the straps and backpacks of Topman Design A/W 09- the green top is actually almost identical to the ones below, n fact it was the key label for the shoot really as each piece was so perfect. Woolrich, Oliver Spencer are that whole workwear thing... I wanted to get that clear Omar Kashoura jacket in as I knew i wanted it to be a futuristic take on mountaineering. Part of what is cool right now, part what men could wear. Christopher Raeburn is very interesting, one to watch."

Friday, May 8, 2009

Picture Postcard: Men in skirts

Dearest EJ

We have been meaning to talk about the interplay between the social constructs of masculinity with men's fashion and style for some time now but however many posts we draft, we ultimately do not know where to begin...with this in mind why not start with a picture postcard?

To get the ball rolling, let's go straight for the jugular and start a little discussion on skirts. I read a funny piece in 10 Men by Dereck Blasberg talking about men in skirts and his own experiences showing off his calves. He opened the article by admitting that he idolises Marc Jacobs, so much so in fact that he would do anything he told him to, including standing in a chemist wearing a skirt. For him donning a skirt initially feels like waving a flag, declaring to the world that he is gay but Jacobs pushed him to try out this taboo garment. Of course, for Spring/Summer 09 there was a handful of designers who worked the skirt, including Comme des Garcons (seemingly a constant fixture each season), Number (N)ine, Gaultier, McQueen, Owens, and Yohji Yamamoto but he, like most men needed to see someone other than an eighteen year old pretty boy wearing one. I am reminded of Fantastic Man's recent Men in Skirts editorial which styled the skirt and presented it in a much more 'butch' way with 'real' men proudly display their legs. It certainly was refreshing to see a different type of chap wearing a skirt but I wonder if it led to any copy cat adventures? Are there any readers out there who dared to bare?

So how did the 10 chap fare, I hear you ask!? Well, after getting over the initial feelings of interpretation he grew to love the feeling of freedom afforded to him by the flowing fabric. The love affair was short lived the following day however, when he fell over. This embarrassment induced the realisation that initial liberation afforded to him by the skirt was short lived and actually made him feel like 'he did not want to go to the circus ever day.' In fact, as he was helped up he was told "Well, if you're not Scottish, you're just a guy in drag" and I know most people would agree with that.

Over the coming weeks I want to explore society's attitudes to various items of men's clothing and the role that hegemonic notions of masculinity play in shifting style over time but for now I am off to Kent for a weekend by the sea and old folk. Will I be wearing a skirt in the Spring sunshine? Not bloody likely, I'll be wearing my 'safest', most acceptable items of clothing to avoid name calling, finger pointing and even violence. Have I ever told you how a mini brawl erupted after a few hoodlums took offence at the colour of my striped jumper? If not, oh well, another time...

Have a great weekend

Steve

Friday, May 1, 2009

Honey, I styled the kids

Do you remember Wayne Szalinski from the late 80s and 90s? I doubt many that of the stylish young chaps featured below do because they are far too young. For the benefit of those who don't then, Szalinski was just your average 'nutty' scientist who worked on top secret machines and accidentally (somewhat carelessly) tested his latest laser beam contraption on his own children (more than once). It seems the hilarious scientist has diverted his attention from shrinking and blowing up his own kids and has duly flicked the 'style' switch whilst aiming his laser at children indiscriminately. If you think I've gone crazy please bear with me because I do have a point hidden somewhere amongst my confused ramblings. This week the best dressed people I've seen online and beyond have been less than 5ft tall and I am not talking about isolated sightings of a re-styled Danny DeVito....my attention has been frequently diverted to the youth of today.

Not a DS or action figure in sight...a typical scan from Vogue Enfants from Fashion Screen

I have suffered sartorial envy towards a toddler before at the hands of this mini Parisian captured by Tommy but these past few days the sheer volume of styled little folk have left me dazed, confused and strangely envious. In short I am close to being a man beaten by someone I really should not be. My week began with me learning exactly what goes on inside the pages of Vogue Enfants (courtesy of The Fashionisto). The well styled editorials depict a number of those whipper snappers in somewhat alarmingly mature environments. In terms of the clothes themselves I'd happily wear most of it and this combined with the fake tattoos and faux driving shots makes the whole thing very, very strange indeed. In truth I was freaked out a little by it all. I compared what I was like at that age...and remembered that I was happiest in my Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle t-shirt initially and then progressed to Arsenal football kits and little else. When I wanted to look more mature I went to the shop and naively 'puffed' on candy cigarettes and applied the Superman tattoo to my arm. But damn this publication and the evidence below suggests that kids grow up fast these days.

Two straw fedoras belonging to two stylish prepubescents

Just as I recovered from the shock of Vogue Enfants I encountered two well style prepubescents over on the Sartorialist and Facehunter wearing strikingly similar ensembles including matching straw fedoras (something not lost on Thom either). The little star captured by Mr Schuman has already generated a great deal of attention amongst commenters (155 and counting) and the general consensus is that he is adorable. The cut of his jacket and length of cuff is spot on. Not only is he extremely well turned out but he knows how to pose far better than me! I need to pull my finger out, I'm not ready yet to beaten so easily by those so young. The slightly older chap snapped by Facehunter once again out dresses me and seems to posses more attitude.

Whilst on the subject on being out styled by the 'small people' I would like to cast your minds back to a little GQ feature on an eight year old. Thom first brought Arlo Weiner to my attention back in March whilst showcasing the eight year old's style and declaring "Arlo Weiner, son of Mad Men creator Matt Weiner, is simply one of the most stylish people, anywhere, of any age." I have to agree with him. Thom subsequently threatened to give up the style game when he encountered Luca and Daniel via the NY Times and again these boys are depressingly well put together.

I am only twenty five but feel like a past his prime Father gasping for air whilst watching his Son beat him at yet another sport. What is happening? Is Wayne Szalinski really to blame for this sustained influx of stylish nippers? What do you make of these little folk, are you in awe like me whilst finding it all a little creepy and wrong? The fact that I am being out styled by someone who could well still wet the bed is not what scares me but rather the thought of what these kids could become when they grow up! I will leave you digest this fear inducing thought whilst admiring their respective getups...

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Summer 2009 Must-Have: Trendy Swimwear

The sun is beaming brightly. It produces a different tingling heat. Can you feel it too? Well, here the Philippines, it's definitely summer time and I am so excited with this season. It means longer day, tanner skin, tons of sun block lotion or tanning oil, glasses of refreshing smoothies and drinks, time to play around and most of all having fun in a beach.

But before we head outdoors and bask on the heat of the sun let's check our bags if we got the summer must-haves such as swimwear.

There are lots of available swimwear but we should not buy impulsively. Keep in mind that they are not just for swimming, but for posing as well. You'll feel good if you're sporting a hot trendy swimwear. I looked on the Victoria's Secret site and here are some of the must-haves swimwear that every fashionista should grab:

Influences: Bohemian, retro, glamorous, sexy, one-shoulder, cut-outs



Accents: Ring hardware, buckles, belts, ruffles, chains and beads.


Prints: Geometrics, stripes, clashing, florals, animals, polka dots


Colors: Purples, metallics, brights, greens, solids